Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - kenmore dryer heats when it shouldn't!
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ljwobker
10-10-05, 12:40 PM
I've got a Kenmore Series 80 electric dryer, purchased '98-99 or so. The problem I'm having is that the dryer heats whether or not the start button is pressed: as soon as you turn the dial to any of the heat cycles, the element heats up and won't shut off until the thermal sensor trips it.
Other observations that may be of use:
1) applies only to heat cycles, if you set the timer to an "air dry" it doesn't heat.
2) the timer WILL run to the finish of a cycle and then the element turns off, but if you (for example) open the door in the middle of a cycle, the element stays ON.
3) the element heats regardless of whether the door is open or not
4) the door-open switch IS working (i.e. you can hear it click and the light does go on/off when you open the door).
5) starting and stopping a cycle doesn't fix anything -- as long as the timer switch is on something OTHER than "off" or "air dry" the element stays hot.
I'm reasonably comfortable taking these things apart and have looked around inside a bit, nothing seems particularly out of whack... any suggestions on what else to look at would be most appreciated.
--lj
Other observations that may be of use:
1) applies only to heat cycles, if you set the timer to an "air dry" it doesn't heat.
2) the timer WILL run to the finish of a cycle and then the element turns off, but if you (for example) open the door in the middle of a cycle, the element stays ON.
3) the element heats regardless of whether the door is open or not
4) the door-open switch IS working (i.e. you can hear it click and the light does go on/off when you open the door).
5) starting and stopping a cycle doesn't fix anything -- as long as the timer switch is on something OTHER than "off" or "air dry" the element stays hot.
I'm reasonably comfortable taking these things apart and have looked around inside a bit, nothing seems particularly out of whack... any suggestions on what else to look at would be most appreciated.
--lj
ljwobker
10-16-05, 06:44 PM
shameless bump back to the top... I replaced the timer switch (the whole assembly) and that's not it. I'm now thinking it has to be some kind of short somewhere, but I have no idea where to look. Any suggestions?
xpert repair
10-18-05, 08:40 PM
You may have in fact a short, but it could be the centriguel swith to the motor. If thats the case the motor will have to be replaced. When the switch get stuck, it creates the path that the timer assumes that the motor is running and will try to heat
anni30
12-18-08, 08:56 PM
I've got a Kenmore Series 80 electric dryer, purchased '98-99 or so. The problem I'm having is that the dryer heats whether or not the start button is pressed: as soon as you turn the dial to any of the heat cycles, the element heats up and won't shut off until the thermal sensor trips it.
Other observations that may be of use:
1) applies only to heat cycles, if you set the timer to an "air dry" it doesn't heat.
2) the timer WILL run to the finish of a cycle and then the element turns off, but if you (for example) open the door in the middle of a cycle, the element stays ON.
3) the element heats regardless of whether the door is open or not
4) the door-open switch IS working (i.e. you can hear it click and the light does go on/off when you open the door).
5) starting and stopping a cycle doesn't fix anything -- as long as the timer switch is on something OTHER than "off" or "air dry" the element stays hot.
I'm reasonably comfortable taking these things apart and have looked around inside a bit, nothing seems particularly out of whack... any suggestions on what else to look at would be most appreciated.
--lj
My dryer is doing the same thing. I haven't taken it a part but the dryer feels warm like it's been on when in fact it hasn't been used. The motor doesn't run. I was wondering what you did to repair yours. I realize it's been quite a while ago but any insight you can give is appreciated.
Anni
Other observations that may be of use:
1) applies only to heat cycles, if you set the timer to an "air dry" it doesn't heat.
2) the timer WILL run to the finish of a cycle and then the element turns off, but if you (for example) open the door in the middle of a cycle, the element stays ON.
3) the element heats regardless of whether the door is open or not
4) the door-open switch IS working (i.e. you can hear it click and the light does go on/off when you open the door).
5) starting and stopping a cycle doesn't fix anything -- as long as the timer switch is on something OTHER than "off" or "air dry" the element stays hot.
I'm reasonably comfortable taking these things apart and have looked around inside a bit, nothing seems particularly out of whack... any suggestions on what else to look at would be most appreciated.
--lj
My dryer is doing the same thing. I haven't taken it a part but the dryer feels warm like it's been on when in fact it hasn't been used. The motor doesn't run. I was wondering what you did to repair yours. I realize it's been quite a while ago but any insight you can give is appreciated.
Anni
pugsl
12-19-08, 04:33 AM
Don't have wiring diagram in front of me but if I remember right the door switch is not wired into the heater circuit. It will heat until thermostat shuts it off. Dryers with a heater relay will shut off with door.
ecman51`
12-19-08, 04:03 PM
Test the dryer element to see if it broke and is hitting the metal of the dryer, completing one of the 2 120 volt circuits, to ground. I have ran into this problem myself and that is what it was.
With 240 volt circuits, often they are wired so that basically the wire is live (unswitched). When everything is the way it is supposed to be, the power cannot normally flow until something is turned on, that allows it to. But, if the wire or element in this case breaks and contacts metal, the live circuit is allowed to complete to ground (into the metal of the dryer, where there it goes to ground). Then, the part of the broken element that is still connected to the power source can still heat up. Not the entire element. Just the part still hooked up to the unswitched side. It heat up with 120 power rather than 120. But that is still hot enough to make the dryer or dryer metal warm to the touch.
With 240 volt circuits, often they are wired so that basically the wire is live (unswitched). When everything is the way it is supposed to be, the power cannot normally flow until something is turned on, that allows it to. But, if the wire or element in this case breaks and contacts metal, the live circuit is allowed to complete to ground (into the metal of the dryer, where there it goes to ground). Then, the part of the broken element that is still connected to the power source can still heat up. Not the entire element. Just the part still hooked up to the unswitched side. It heat up with 120 power rather than 120. But that is still hot enough to make the dryer or dryer metal warm to the touch.