Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - Reference thread... Nitromethane in Small engines
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kartracer55
10-09-05, 02:47 PM
Ok, Im gunna put my knowledge into one thread and I hope others can add to it. Lets try to keep it on topic.
Nitromethane isnt a mixture of anything. Its got a chemical make up of its own. Its just sometimes mixed with alcohol, because fo the potential to blow up an engine. The NHRA, at one point, didnt have rules abotu how you could mix your nitromethane, and guys would blow up thier engines, literally, endangering the crowd. So now, its mixed in a certian ratio with methanol or ethanol. That the model airplane stuff your using is only about 50% nitromethane, if that. You can get the real deal from VP racing fuel but its big$$$
Anyway, the thing about nitromethane is that you can burn a hell of alot more per stroke.
If im not mistaken the ratio of pounds of air needed to burn a pound of gasoline is like 15:1
Nitro is like 2:1, so its a hell of alot more power.
Just be careful with the stuff, and Make sure you tear down that motor after every few hours of use, probably 5-10 and make sure you dont have any cracking along the crank, and that the wrist pin isnt wearing funny. Replace the head gasket when you do the tear downs as well, because Nitromethane really takes its toll on an engine.
In response to Lwnmwerpllr...
Sometimes engines do run that rich. What you really need to do is run the engine with a load (ie on a go-kart) and see how it pulls out of turns... is it bogging down from too much fuel? Play with the mixture needle to get it just right. A good starting point is usualy 1 1/2 turns out.
As for magnafluxing, all you need to worry about is the wrist pin and the connecting rod. Maybe magnaflux the crankpin once a year if that. I actually ouldnt worry to much about maganfluxing the motor. Its not like you have thousands of dollars invested in the thing. Connecting rods and wrist pins are fairly cheap. Ideally though, you would probably want a cast iron sleeved blocl (briggs I/C engines) However you may be able to sleeve your current motor.
Jim
Nitromethane isnt a mixture of anything. Its got a chemical make up of its own. Its just sometimes mixed with alcohol, because fo the potential to blow up an engine. The NHRA, at one point, didnt have rules abotu how you could mix your nitromethane, and guys would blow up thier engines, literally, endangering the crowd. So now, its mixed in a certian ratio with methanol or ethanol. That the model airplane stuff your using is only about 50% nitromethane, if that. You can get the real deal from VP racing fuel but its big$$$
Anyway, the thing about nitromethane is that you can burn a hell of alot more per stroke.
If im not mistaken the ratio of pounds of air needed to burn a pound of gasoline is like 15:1
Nitro is like 2:1, so its a hell of alot more power.
Just be careful with the stuff, and Make sure you tear down that motor after every few hours of use, probably 5-10 and make sure you dont have any cracking along the crank, and that the wrist pin isnt wearing funny. Replace the head gasket when you do the tear downs as well, because Nitromethane really takes its toll on an engine.
In response to Lwnmwerpllr...
Sometimes engines do run that rich. What you really need to do is run the engine with a load (ie on a go-kart) and see how it pulls out of turns... is it bogging down from too much fuel? Play with the mixture needle to get it just right. A good starting point is usualy 1 1/2 turns out.
As for magnafluxing, all you need to worry about is the wrist pin and the connecting rod. Maybe magnaflux the crankpin once a year if that. I actually ouldnt worry to much about maganfluxing the motor. Its not like you have thousands of dollars invested in the thing. Connecting rods and wrist pins are fairly cheap. Ideally though, you would probably want a cast iron sleeved blocl (briggs I/C engines) However you may be able to sleeve your current motor.
Jim