Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - whirlpool defrost timer repair

I have a 1993 whirlpool side by side fridge that is not cooling: replaced defrost therm, tested heater and now I am trying to locate the defrost timer. I found the defrost timer control board behind the control panel in the fridge and was told by a parts store that my model fridge did not have a defrost timer listed in the parts manual...Is it possible to have the control board without the timer or is the timer hiding somewhere else?

Md# ed25dqxaw01
thanks

:wall:

Part #6 on this page.

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=472228&ModelNum=ed25dqxaw01&ManufactureID=3&Selected=T5HGMUB9&Position=2&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Appliance&Mark=2

If you have an adaptive defrost module you do not have a defrost timer.

thanks,

Is there any way to test this particular control board before purchase? I do not have the repair manual that comes with the fridge.

Confused. What are the symptoms that made you think you had a problem[both frige and freezer not cooling],and what did the coils look like when you opened changed the thermostat? What kind of frost pattern?I assume they were all iced up. They still are?

the coils are ALL frosted over and a couple of days after the fridge stops cooling, the freezer stops freezing well. However, the coils and the back panel are still frosted over completely.

the fridged stopped cooling about a month ago. We manually defrosted the fridge for 36 hours, turned it back on and it worked fine for a week untill the same thing happened; the fridge stopped cooling properly. We checked the coils and they are all frosted over and the back panel will frost over too once the fridge stopped cooling. We manually defrosted the fridge again,we replaced the defrost therm and checked the ohms on the heater, which read 30 ohms. Once we replaced the defrost therm, the fridge worked again for a week and again stopped cooling. So now we would like to check the defrost timer control board to see if that is the problem.

concerns:
once, before when the fridge would stop cooling, I heard the fridge sound like it was trying to "turn on" over and over again(fluctuating noise flowed by a click)

I noticed the vent in the top left corner of the fridge was slightly iced over when we noticed the fridge was not cooling.

thanks

Your refrigerator DOES have a defrost timer. It is located behind your temp. controls in the fresh food side. Timer is part # 2154958. At least thats what I saw in the breakdown when I looked up your model # at APWagners.com.

Part #6 in the above link is the defrost timer.try to advance it and see if the defrost heater comes on if it does replace the defrost timer. Here is a page that will help.

http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

thanks so much for your both of your assistance. I will try it and hopefully be successful.

well, there is no defrost timer, just a defrost timer control board and there is not an advance dial on it. I did find this:

http://www.kwantlentrades.com/appliancerepair/technology.htm
As there is no manual advancement into the defrost cycle as with the standard mechanical timer, how do you initiate or force a defrost to diagnose the cycle? The following procedure will initiate the defrost cycle on Inglis/Whirlpool refrigerators:

1. Unplug refrigerator

2. Turn Cold Control to ?off (Compressor is off)

3. Plug in refrigerator

The defrost cycle has now been initiated. The DTT has a bypass/test point for diagnosis. To terminate defrost manually:

1. Unplug the refrigerator

2. Turn the cold control ?on? (Compressor is on)

3. Plug in the refrigerator

The defrost cycle is terminated and refrigeration cycle resumes.

I did the first steps from 1-3 to the next 1-3 and will wait til morning and see if there is any changes.

No changes to the fridge. Fridge still at room temp and freezer is decreasing in temp too.

Is the compressor running? It should be. If it is unplug the ref and plug it right back in,the compressor should not start.

the compressor is not running, just the fan under the fridge. The back panel of the freezer is completely frosted over, including the back panel vent slits. The compressor is hot to the touch

sorry, scratch above..i think the compressor is running. That would be the humming noise? I will check it from the back of the fridge

the compressor is running and when i unplugged/plugged back in, it started back up. Is the defrost timer control not going into defrost mode?

It could be that because you have had the door open so much there is frost on the back panel. You need to take the panel off and look at the coils.

When I talk about the fan I mean the fan in the freezer. It should be running if the compressor is on. It is important to know if it is running. It is behind the wall that has frost on it. Behind the slats. Feel for a cold breeze coming out of the top when the compressor is on.

The fan under the ref needs to be running too and the coils need to be clean under the ref. That is important too. Part #3 in this diagram is the thing under the ref that has to be clean.Part #22 is the evaporatoe in the freezer that we need to see.

you need to take the panel off the back to see the evaporator.I just saw you last post

http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0165000&brandID=1198&modelDesc=REFRIGERATOR&modelNumber=ED25DQXAW00&documentID=O2006086&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=UNIT&titleID=00010&

the fan is running in the freezer and the frost is building up bad, but frost is not on the fan. there is a cold breeze. I cleaned under the fridge yesterday and that fan was running too.

If you did put it in defrost mode last night it should not be so frosted up today. If you remove the cover with the slats in it you can try to put it in defrost mode again and see if the heaters come on. If the coils are all frosted up that would mean that the ref is not going into defrost mode automatically.It also means the heater and the thermostat are good.

As far a s the compressor starting up after you unpluged it.When the compressor is working right it builds up pressure between the comp and the coils in the freezer. When you unplug it and plug it back in there should be too much pressure for it to start right up. It should take a while for it to equalize. When it does start up it means an inefficient compressor or low on freon=leak. It may still be cooling somewhat.

Please remove the panel to expose the coils in the freezer.

i will take the panel off. I think we will have to call a repair person for compressor issues. agree?

Yes and it should be under warranty=free. Need to check what the coils look like first though.

No way. If there is heavy frost you dont have a compressor problem, its a defrost problem. Short trick, Ohm the heaters. As long as there is ohms, the problem is in your adaptive defrost control. You have to also replace the defrost thermost(bimetal). This insures that you will not have to replace it again while you have the back panel off. this is also how the board reads the temperature of the freezer

I did say that the evaporator needed to be checked before doing anything[a number of times]. I also think the compressor should not start right up against a high head pressure.I do agree with the iced up evaporator it is a defrost problem.

At the time of this thread I was involved with at least 1 other one. got them mixed up. !993 + warranty =no way. The other thread was a five year old ref I think.


My apologies to mezagan if he had to pay a service call.Hope he checked the coils before he called. I believe I pm'd[deleted] him regarding the service call.

Not that it is any excuse ,but part, if not all ,the problem stems from the forum. The scrolling is a big hassle. I usually try to look back at what was done and what could be next,but as this thread grew I didn't due to the hassle of the scrolling. I believe while this thread was going on I was involved in another on ----again with the scrolling :wall: :wall:


I really wish this could be fixed.It is more than a little problem. That and having to copy and paste links :thumbdn:

I think I am having a similar problem with my whirlpool gold side by side. My fridge will run until the freezer is sub 0 and the fridge is 0. Then it will kick off and not come back on. I'll come back to it the next morning and the fridge will be warm and the freezer will be fridge cool. I can tap, a fairly light tap, the control area around the thermostat and it will kick back on then do the same thing. Is this a thermostat problem or adaptive control board (since they are next to each other). Thx for any insight you might provide.