Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - interlacing with old nailed maple t&g
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grahamaross
10-02-05, 11:12 PM
Upstairs hall floor is maple, installed in the '70s. I have added a bunch of adjoining space, lengthening the hallway to the new rooms. Hoping to extend the flooring with new matching material. Old boards are 3/4" (or 25/32") x 2-1/4". It looks like I will be able to find a pretty good match locally. I plan to sand and finish the entirety after installing. My questions are about how to "interlace" the new boards with the old.
How to remove old "shorties": do I follow the removal procedure for a small repair (carefully skillsaw and chisel out the old)?
How far into the old floor should my interlaced boards extend? I'm thinking 2' or 3' is far enough (staggered, obviously). Some of the existing boards are five or six feet long. For boards that are long, if I don't want to replace the whole thing, what kind of tools and techniques are best for getting a clean, square end on the part that's staying put without damaging the adjoining boards?
For installing the new, I'm guessing I just slip/tap them into the vacancies as I work my way across the hallway. To fasten the slipped-in ends of the new stuff, do I epoxy them down as in a repair, or is there some tricky way to work nails into the blind tongues in the old floor? Or do I top-nail them, set the nails, and fill the holes?
Or is this all wrong, and I should saw/chisel away all tongues and just top-nail the new stuff into the vacancies.
Subfloor in the old space is T&G fir, and in the new space is 3/4" plywood.
How to remove old "shorties": do I follow the removal procedure for a small repair (carefully skillsaw and chisel out the old)?
How far into the old floor should my interlaced boards extend? I'm thinking 2' or 3' is far enough (staggered, obviously). Some of the existing boards are five or six feet long. For boards that are long, if I don't want to replace the whole thing, what kind of tools and techniques are best for getting a clean, square end on the part that's staying put without damaging the adjoining boards?
For installing the new, I'm guessing I just slip/tap them into the vacancies as I work my way across the hallway. To fasten the slipped-in ends of the new stuff, do I epoxy them down as in a repair, or is there some tricky way to work nails into the blind tongues in the old floor? Or do I top-nail them, set the nails, and fill the holes?
Or is this all wrong, and I should saw/chisel away all tongues and just top-nail the new stuff into the vacancies.
Subfloor in the old space is T&G fir, and in the new space is 3/4" plywood.
Marco1
10-02-05, 11:21 PM
If you have room, tap the new boards into their slot with a little wood glue on the t & g. If there is a wall in the way, you will have to remove the bottom of the groove, use some glue and top nail.
Yes, you use a skillsaw and if you want to cut a board short, use a small sharp chisel with a square to make a new butt. 2-3 feet max should be enough.
Yes, you use a skillsaw and if you want to cut a board short, use a small sharp chisel with a square to make a new butt. 2-3 feet max should be enough.
twelvepole
10-03-05, 02:03 AM
If you don't want to lap in new boards, you can use a threshold in doorways and begin anew with new hardwood. Any new wood will never match the old exactly due to age, oxidation, exposure to sunlight, etc.