Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - cracked tongue questions

i am in stalling 3/4" solid hardwoods and have a few questions about tongues that crack during installation.

1. Why do the crack? is it the pressure of my stapler or the force i am hitting the plunger with? is it not okay to give the stapler a decent whack if i need to close the gap a bit?

2. what happens if i dont replace the boards when the tongue cracks? will it give me pops and creaks after the install? should i replac ethem or just let them be?

I am installing kempas if it matters. Thanks, Mike :)

If pressure is too high on pneumatic stapler or nailer, it can split tongues. As long as you have some tongue, you can nail the boards. Nail about every eight inches. Boards should be pulled as tightly as possible when nailing.

If jobsite conditions meet recommended standards, vapor retarders in place, wood allowed to acclimate before installation, temperature and humidity maintained at occupancy levels year round, gapping should be at a minimum.

For hardwood flooring installation instructions, go to www.nofma.org

will this cause "popping" when you walk on floor above the split tongues? i seem to have some clicks and pops in my new install. not all the time but once in a while. if the spliut tongues arent causing the clicks and pops, what is? tahnks for your help in advance. :)

Split tongues can cause those pops you hear. Some of them may settle down with a little time but too much is a problem. Some species split more than others. I don't know Kempas. A stapler will split more than a cleat nailer. The force you use on the nailer head has no bearing on splitting. Your pressure should be below 90 lbs, but I *think* thats mainly for the health of the nailers seals. The fastener shouldn't drive any further than the pin that drives it. I've turned down my pressure to 55 where the gun starts leaking air and the fasteners seem to drive just as deep.

Boards should be pulled as tightly as possible when nailing.

If jobsite conditions meet recommended standards, vapor retarders in place, wood allowed to acclimate before installation, temperature and humidity maintained at occupancy levels year round, gapping should be at a minimum.
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Twelvepole has obviously never tried to pull bowed boards tight.

Or, like me.... he uses those for firewood.......