Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - sand blasting media for motorcycle parts

Any suggestions on media for aluminum/steel parts. Is silica sand too aggressive? Most of the paint has been removed already using paint stripper. Is silica sand the same as glass beads? Some parts will be repainted, (sidecovers), others will be left alone...wheel hubs for example. Thanks in advance!

the black sand is what you want,

or you will have 2 much pitting.

if the side covers are plastic, i dont recommend ever sand blasting plastic.

I tried sand blasting and i actually prefer the old elbow grease way.

Some 60 and 80 grit, with a electric sander, takes it right off.

Then I use some 40 grit once the pain is all off

then I use good bondo and some laquecer thinner missed in with it, just a tad, to thin it and i put a light coat on the whole tank or whatever.

Then about 8 coats of primer and lots of 400 and 600 wet sanding.

I didnt know if you needed that much info.

SO I hope I didnt over offer.

Plastic parts, I just wet sand with 100 and 200, and then 400 grit.

There is also a chemical that you can get that takes the paint off metal, but i cant rememeber off hand the name of it, but i know its not 2 cheap. the good stuff anyhow.

A tip is to call a autobody shop, find out who there local supplier is and call them.

I use to buff and polish my side covers or wheels, with ditsler dr 25 polsihing compund and then put a couple coats of clear laquer on it. and front forks also.

sporty

hi Sporty..I've got a 72 Triumph in a basket. It sat in my barn for years..Thanks to my son, (who has since vanished) I tore it down, had the frame stripped (sand blasted) by a pro along with misc parts...triple trees, engine mounts,foot pegs, etc. But I still have some small parts. No plastic.. The side covers are aluminum and sheet metal. The wheel hubs are aluminum and already are kind of an orange peel or matt finish but discolored from oxidation. I wanted to blast them to even out the finish.
Is your "black sand" what's called Black Magic. I was at the supply house today and got a box of glass bead. So I have a bag of silica sand and the glass bead.
I don't know what to do with the engine parts..the lower end covers..transmission, primary, which are smooth but discolored from oxidation
So I went up to Sears, got a 'handy andy' home owner sand blasting kit. But I've never done it and I'm not sure what to run through it. I have heard a lot about the glass beads because they're not supposed to remove the base metal. So..

Sporty, You dont wet sand with 400 grit...


Autobodys usually start out with 800 then move up to as fine as 2000 depending on the finish level desired.

Also, Usually you only lay down 1 or two coats of primer, but give it numerous coats of the final paint color. You want to build up the paint thick, so that when you wetsand it, you have a thick enough layer of paint so that you dont get into the primer. You can use a Filler (Bondo) but just dont us too much, because the more you use the more you have to sand down. Also remember when your wetsanding, mount the paper to a rubber sanding block. Eastwood sells them and they are liek $8 a piece. a rubber block is a smooth flixible backing, so you dont sand "fingermarks" into your paint.

When wetsanding, Remember to add a little bit of dishsoap to the water, as this helps keep the paper unclogged for longer. You can never change the water too often either.

Jim

Umm,

You do wet sand with 400, I took autobody school.

I have painted 3 cars, 4 motorcycles, 2 snowmobiles and more

My son has recieved trophys fro some of his pine woody derby cars, for there shine.

Also, 1,000 and 2,000 grit you will see used in laquer paint.

6 - 8 coats of light primer is better than 2 coats of thick.

here is a pic of my sons derby racer

http://home.insightbb.com/~ryan.johnson6/wsb/html/view.cgi-image.html--graphic.html

If you can fill with just coats of light primer after sanding blasting, wow !


Also never sand blast aluminuim, use 400 grit and 200 grit for wheels and cases.

I once did a set of aluminum car rims, that were pitted pretty bad, and after sanding. I used a buffer and the diztsler 25 polishing compound.

Ill try and find a picture of one of the cars I have painted also. My floppy is out and i think it's on a floppy diskette.

You will find stander wet sand paper, 400-800 at wal-mart, the paper is black


sanding blocks (rubber kind) do work good, but if you have something that has alot of curves or angles, you end up sanding more on one area than the other and likely sand past the primer on the curves or edges.

on motorcycle gas tanks and side covers, if there is a big enough area to use a rubber sanding block then do so, Bust I have had to use my hand on them.

farm n fleet sells the rubber sanding blocks also.

I got you to the primer , but if you are using a base coat type paint or a all in one paint

base coat, the base coat is 2-3 coats and then 3 or 4 coats of the clear, then baked on.

once the base coat is one then you wet sand it, 800 grit on up.

you also once you have the clear coat on, and it is sure and dry , a rubbing compound is used with a buffer, this is the tricky part, if you have not done this before, you can buff burn the clear coat or go into the base coat.

all in one, typically enamel has the paint and gloss mixed into it.

sport