Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Lighting art show

I have to light a stained glass art show. I need high brightness, low draw, and fairly low cost. I would rather stay away from fluorescent because it skews colours, although I may combine it with warmer lights if I need to. What are my best options for self-contained spots and floods ? What type of bulb should I be looking for ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Halogens are the first thing that come to mind, but they generate a lot of heat and consume a fair bit of power.

I would look again at fluorescent. There are many different bulbs available and you might be able to find the color temp. you are looking for. You can also mix bulbs of different temps to get the color you are looking for.

Are you lighting these pieces from in front or behind? On easels or hanging or...? How large are they?
Some shows offer very specific booth parameters, such as a 10x10 foot space with one available outlet. Night show or daytime? Indoors or outdoors?
Each of these questions will determine your options, particularly when dealing with stained glass.
A typical art house/gallery will use track based halogen spots for a bright white light that highlights the specific work. This allows them some flexibility in positioning the lamps. Often they will have a dark colored ceiling to minimize reflections and shadows (and sometimes also to hide the fact that they didn't add a ceiling, but that's cool). There are some very interesting track systems available now at a reasonable cost. The limitation is that they are normally highlighting the front of a canvas or the dimensions of a sculpture.
Another option is to have a translucent plastic panel (available at any local plastics store) with flourescent lighting behind it (cool white bulbs, not warm white), and the stained glass pieces mounted in front of it. This will provide a diffused light behind the stained glass, allowing the patterns and colors to be featured without any distracting glare or shadow. Flourescent has a fairly low draw and stays cooler than halogen or incandescent. You would have to build some form of display box unit for this concept however.
Good luck!

The space is relatively small, approx. 700 sq. ft. The pieces hang from the ceiling against a white background and are lit from behind. There are four narrow, tall windows (former church) that provide good light, but not enough. Last show we used a series of 500 W construction spots and some 50 W outdoor lights for hilights. There is track lighting, but the with stained glass the surface light has to be minimized.

Problem was, we maxed out the system to the point where one more light would trip the breakers. So far the plan is to custom make the extension cords to limit their length and shift some of the burden to fluorescent. Some of the low voltage outdoor lighting looks promising, but the converters are expensive.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Those construction lights were most likely the cause of your electrical headaches last time. Power pigs.
Don't waste your time with low voltage systems for this application, that's not what they are designed to do.
Okay, I'm trying to picture your setup. Correct me as necessary, but it sounds like:
1) Rectangular single room maybe 20x35 ft +/- (ex-church, very cool).
2) Two tall windows on each side. High vaulted ceiling
3) You draped some sort of white sheeting in front of the windows on each side, and then suspended the glass works in front of the sheeting (similar to the translucent plastic idea I tossed at you earlier, only larger scale it sounds like.
4) If you suspend them from the ceiling, they are somewhat large art works. They are primarily flat, not three dimensional, with the emphasis on the patterns and colors. (This is beginning to sound like "What's My Line?")
5) You added the other lights behind the sheeting to supplement the natural light, and to maybe add drama or highlights.
Okay, assuming that I'm somewhat close to what you have going on here, these are my thoughts:
You have existing track lighting, use it. Only modify it for your purpose. Point the lamps at the ceiling and/or hang some sheeting in front of the lamps to act as a diffuser shroud like photographers do. Or change the bulbs to one of the newer "reveal" light bulbs. This will increase your overall light at minimal cost, and might help a lot if pointed correctly without creating glare and so forth...
Buy a bunch of flourescent shop lights. They are dirt cheap at the mega-diy stores. Same with bulbs, buy a carton of them. I've seen standard two-bulb four foot shop light fixtures (just add bulbs!) for $5.99 each. You want the shop fixtures that have a shroud that mounts behind the bulbs and reflects the light in a nice broad glow. You can have a bank of them facing upwards behind the sheeting, or hanging from the ceiling and pointed down behind the sheeting, or you can hang a couple of them directly behind the sheeting (use chain, not rope), basically anywhere you want. You can either buy a long length of bulk three-wire electrical cord (appliance cord), and build your own wire lengths for each lamp instead of modifying the extension cords, or you can do the opposite and build your own extension cords, whatever. Those lamps with cool white bulbs will put out a lot of light with low draw. Should be fine for your purposes.
Good luck!