Rotted Wall Studs in Enclosed Porch

[moblind]

Sorry for the long post.

Background:

We have an enclosed porch attached to the back of our house (3 window walls) that was built probably in the 1950s or so (17 x 12). Our intention was to re-do the room to make it a tv/game room by removing the old sheetrock, replacing the louvre windows, adding insulation between the wall studs & ceiling joist, new sheetrock and tiling the floor. When we demo-ed down to the studs, we found that the longest window wall had taken in some water and the studs and plywood sheathing were rotted & crumbling. My DH located & repaired the leaks, so water intake is no longer a problem, but obviously, the entire wall framing and sheathing along that wall will need to be replaced. The framing of the other 2 window walls and the ceiling/roof were never wet and are in great condition.

My DH thinks we should removing the siding from the entire addition, replace the rotted framing & sheathing, tyvek the entire addition, install the new windows and then put the siding back on (sounds good to me). Since this is a window wall, it is obviously bearing the load of the addition roof. Fall/winter is coming and we need to do the exterior work before the end of September, otherwise we will have to wait until next spring.

What is the simplest method to replace the framing? Any help/advice on remedying this situation in the simplest manner would be appreciated (although I expect that the work won't be easy). Thanks

[IBM5081]

Some temporary supports are in order. Is the ceiling sagging in the middle of this 17' run? This would be the time to ensure that the ceiling joists form a level surface so that there is not a trough in the roof. If the bottom plate in that wall is flat and level and all the new studs are the same length, you will quickly see where any sag has developed. I would be prepared to use some 4x4's and 2x6's made into a T shape to be able to jack up any areas that may have dropped down.
As far as inserting the studs into the wall, I recommend renting or purchasing a few jack posts that will allow you to lift the top plate slightly and position the new studs. An alternative is a 4x4 with a hydraulic jack (4-ton should be enough) and a metal plate on top to do the same thing.
I agree with the idea of removing everything, but would leave the side walls untouched until the framing and sheathing on the long wall are complete. That's insurance in case you run out of time and have to wait until spring.

[moblind]

Thanks for the tips. There are no sags in the roof at all, so at least that won't be a problem. Once we jack up the top plate, I suppose we should insert the new studs and build as we go for a tight fit, rather than construct the wall and then raise it all at once. I'm hoping this whole process won't take more than a couple of weeks.

[IBM5081]

Once all the materials and equipment are on-site, I would think that it should not take more than 2-3 days of steady work. I would recommend renting/borrowing an air compressor and a pneumatic framing nailer for one of the days when the studs are being placed. It will also come in handy when installing headers and window rough openings. A chop saw is desirable as well, rather than using a circular saw for every cut.

BTW, you will want to put up plastic sheeting over every opening from that room into the rest of the house. The dust will go EVERYWHERE, especially while the wall is open. A ShopVac is excellent for collecting dust as well as small chunks of wood and dirt that will find there way in.

Is working-only-on-the-weekend the reason why you think that it will take several weeks?

[moblind]

We purchased all the materials last weekend and they are being delivered tomorrow morning. The enclosed porch originally had two points of entry from the house -- a set of french doors from the dining room (still in place) and a door from the kitchen, which we removed and walled up when we were remodeling the kitchen this past winter (we decided we didn't need to doors to go into the room so we walled up the door to have more wall space for kitchen cabinets & the fridge). Keeping the dust out won't be much of a problem. As for the air tools, I'm thinking of just spending the money for a good set of air tools and a compressor. I know they're relatively expensive, but we have the basement to re-do this winter (yep, another project down to the studs) and I'll be doing some woodworking projects -- an entertainment unit & bar downstairs, a new fireplace surround, a buffet for the dining room and a videogame/tv unit for the game room we're working on now. All "built-ins," BTW.

Here's a link to the kitchen pictures to see what we've already done -- http://www.geocities.com/moblind/kitchen/kitchen.html
(just scroll down and keep clicking "next")


We both work full time so we can do some of the "quiet" work in the evenings when we get home (DH is an electrician, so he usually does any wiring during the week so as not to disturb the neighbors, I do painting or tile work or whatever's not too noisy). The weekends are left for the bigger and louder jobs, although my thought was that if we do the prep work on a Friday night (final measurements, etc.) and start the job early Saturday morning, we could be finished with it by Sunday evening provided we put in two no-nonsense workdays.

[IBM5081]

My preferences in pneumatic nailers are Hitachi, Porter-Cable and Paslode. I would recommend a 16-guage finish nailer along with a framing nailer to start. Those two will go a long way toward what you intend to do. There are some combo kits that combine a compressor with a nailer in one package.
Good luck.