Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Granite tile substrate

Because of working within a tight budget we are contemplating installing granite tile ourselves in our small galley kitchen (quotes have been running more then double than the tile) and have a few questions. We will be removing the old laminate counters and need to install a substrate.

For the substrate we have read to use 2 layers of 3/4" OCB and 1/4" backerboard (wouldn't that raise counter height?) whereas the Tile store uses 1/2" OCB with 1/2" 'Denshield' board. What would you use? Is plain old backer board fine to use as opposed to 'Denshield?

We were amazed at how expensive the trim pcs. are ... more than the tile. The salesmen said many people will use wood trim to cut down on cost but I can't picture that with Granite. If using wood trim, do you lay the tiles flush with the edge of the counter then fasten trim to the substrate?

Any suggestions, tips and guidance would be appreciated from these two 'nervous nellies'!

Yes, the correct way would raise the counter height but are we concerned about height or having the granite tile remain in one piece? The recommended layers is for a reason, to properly support the tile so they dont break under a weight load. By comparison a wood floor with joists spread at 16"OC would need a minimum of 1 & 1/4" of plywood plus the 1/4" cement board. Kitchen cabinets generally have open spans of close to 2' or greater, front to back and side to side. The thickness is needed to support the substrate between the joists.

I would build it as such:
1st layer of 3/4" BCX ply screwed to cabinets and bracing. Overhang can be at your discretion, usually about 1". CDX is not rated as underlayment the "D" layers have too many voids to be of any use under tile.
2nd layer of 3/4" BCX ply screwed into first layer, no need for any glue between boards. Screw at 8" intervals.
Apply paint on liquid waterproof membrane over plywood edges and surface area around sink cutout to protect from water delaminationg the plywood. Could be something like Redgard sold at HD. Also paint on facing edges of plywood and underside surface around dishwasher if there will be one to protect from escaping steam.
After membrane dries apply thinset with 1/4" square notch trowel over surface of plywood and set 1/4" cement board in it. Use 1 & 1/4" galvanized roofing nails to anchor the boards to the plywood. Cut strips of cement board to width and screw into facing of plywood around edges where you want bullnose. Put an even coat of thinset on the board strips before screwing them in.
Set the granite using a white modified thinset and the 1/4" trowel you used for the cement board. Dry lay the tiles to get the layout the way you want it to look. I usually try to start with a full piece at the front edge and put my cuts to the back. A wet saw will work best for the cuts. Keep a grout joint of 1/16" or 1/8" and fill with unsanded grout. If you can find a grout that can be mixed with a latex additive it will offer more in stain resistance. The epoxy hybrid grout sold at Lowes, called SpectraLoc is also very good, harder to work with but fairly user friendly. Read the instructions.
If you use bullnose on the front you can temporarily screw a support board like a 1x3 into the underside of the counter to hold the pieces in place while the thinset dries overnight.

Good luck and post some pictures

Thanks so much, TileguyBob. Your instructions were the most straightforward I have read yet, and you took the 'apprehension' out of the project! I now understand the substrate issue and agree that it is best to do it right at the beginning; as opposed to gambling that there will be enough structure to adequately handle the weight of the Granite.

Another question then ... our range is a freestanding one and is in between the counter ie., 2 1/2 ft. on one side and 3 ft. on the other. How do you 'reconcile' the counter height with the range height? This is probably a stupid question but, again, I appreciate your help!!

Most of the freestanding ranges have adjustable feet that can raise the level about an inch and a half or so. If more is needed a small block under the feet may do it