Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - About to renovate the kitchen...

Hello all,

We are about to start the renovation of our kitchen. We will be doing the following:
-Installing recessed lights in place of existing ceiling fixture.
-Removing 3 soffits above existing cabinets to accomodate new (taller) cabinets.
-Replacing 30" cabinets with 36" cabinets.
-Replacing ugly counters with new granite/stone countertops.
-Refinishing existing oak wood floors.
-Replacing existing sink with new sink.
-Replacing stove and over-the-range microwave with newer models.

I will need to do much of this work myself (to try to keep costs down) although some of it I will plan to have done. For instance, I am ripping out the ceilings and soffits myself but plan to have any ducting/plumbing inside the soffits moved by a pro. I also plan to have the ceiling and soffit areas drywalled by a pro.

Can anyone that has gone through this process before help me establish some sort of a guideline for which of the above mentioned steps should come first? I'd *like* to try and keep the remodeling project moving and it seems that it is hard to do when some of the work is being completed by the homeowner and some is being completed by professionals.
I just really dont want to get to the point where I am waiting for something like a countertop for 4-6 weeks and nothing else can be done until they are in (or similar scenario).

Any insight from people who have gone through this would be great!

Thanks,

Scott

Bi_Polar,

I wrote this and this has saved many a headache!

Kitchen Remodeling - This is pertaining to a complete gut out, to a kitchen layout different than existing and it can be applied to partial remodel as well. If partial, just delete the steps that you don’t find necessary. This will include floor removal.

It should be noted that this is my way but if you are hiring a contractor, they may alter how they do things. The key is to get the desired end result regardless of how they do it but scheduling and ensuring that products arrive on site in “good” condition is critical. Nothing worse than delays in getting products replaced due to damage via shipping or installation.

I will say that in a kitchen remodel, all the designs should have been done and cabinets should be ordered and “on-site” prior to starting the steps below. Now I know that some will say, well I don’t know how much room I have for my countertops, appliances, etc. My answer to that is if you plan ahead and are committed to this project, the homeowner, architect, designer or general contractor will ensure that they have the correct measurements. They will take into account that new drywall is going in and that 1/8” - 1/4” difference will not make the project a disaster. This means that they may make a hole in a wall or two to acquire the necessary measurements. If you are not committed to the project, and don’t want a hole made, don’t do the project. I have witnessed some major delays such as prematurely gutting the kitchen out then get a cabinet rep out to take measurements and wait 4-6 weeks for cabinets to arrive! Does this idea interest you?

1. Once you have plans available, get a Building Permit (allot of folks don’t but it’s your choice) Just don’t call me when a Building Inspector shows up!
2. Rent a trash bin (container) you’re going to need something to place all your trash in! Call for this to be delivered when you are ready to start the demolition.
3. Apply 4 or 6 mil poly to all entries into the kitchen. Use painters tape or duct tape to provide some dust control.
4. Stuff batt insulation or towels into all cold air returns and heat registers within the kitchen. You do not want the dust to travel throughout the home.
5. Now that this is done you can start by;
Shutting off circuit breakers to kitchen - use an outlet tester to ensure that all power is off.
Shut off all water supply lines to kitchen
if you have an ice maker and/or water dispenser on your refrigerator, shut this line off.
6. Move all appliances and plug in refrigerator in a convenient location.
7. Remove all plumbing fixtures, countertops then base and upper cabinets.
8. Remove all existing drywall/plaster down to studs and flooring down to subfloor. Your ceiling may be optional.
9. Clean up time - there is going to be a mess and this will take some time.
10. Now is the time for the getting the ROUGH-IN’S done. It should be done in this order;
Electrician (if additional or relocation's must be made)
Plumber (if relocation's are to be done)
HVAC (if relocation's must be done)
Insulation (if required)
Drywall
(Don’t forget to have the above inspected)
11. Painting - Don’t forget the ceiling - nothing is in your way to do it right!

12. Flooring - Now here is the part that is always in debate but as I mentioned, this is my way. Underlayment can be installed once the painting is done if installing vinyl sheet flooring but this flooring can be installed near the end of the project. I would say that now is a good time to Paint (Granted, the walls may require touch up but that is minimal) I prefer to get flooring installed now like hardwoods and ceramics.

EXCPETION TO THIS RULE: This does not apply to “floating floors” however. These (floating floors) should be installed AFTER cabinets are installed.

This allows for expansion and contraction and trust me, they do! If cabinets are sitting on top, you will see buckles in some areas that will look terrible and cause problems. Floor replacement will be necessary if it expands too much as the edges can't move. I'm sure your flooring installer has mentioned this. That is why it is called a "floating floor".

Hardwood floors will have to be sanded and finished once cabinets are in. Ceramics placed on top of cement backer boards or placed on a mortar bed base will be essential. The reason is dishwashers. Dishwashers do not have the ability to be adjusted low enough to a level that would fit under most countertops when properly placed on cabinets. Yes, you can install the dishwasher before installing the countertops, then what? The problem being the placement of the finish floors after the fact make installation, replacement or repair impossible without damaging the finish floor. The point here is to “plan ahead” for the flooring installation and how to protect it during the remaining remodeling process. I have used drop cloths, then placed 1/4” underlayment on top of the cloths. In some cases I have added additional drop cloths over the top of the underlayment. The additional expense doesn’t outweigh the cost to replace flooring. The key is to protect what you have done. The second point here is installing your base trim and casing. If the flooring was installed properly, the application of all your moldings will be easy. True, I have seen the trim installed before final flooring but I have also seen that they are not at the right location and here comes the caulk to “make it look good”.

13. Install the cabinets (leave doors off) Wall cabinets first, and then base cabinets.
14. Install the appliances (If you have built-ins double check your measurements)
15. Install the countertops.(depending on what you have done here, time delays will be unavoidable - laminates may take a week or 2, solid surface possible 2 or more weeks and granite can be 2 - 5 weeks.
16. Install the sink/faucets
17. Install all remaining electrical issues light fixtures, including low voltage to cabinets.
18. Install door and base moldings
19. Remove all floor protections and finish if applicable.
19. Install doors, hardware, cabinet trim
20. Apply touch up paint as needed.
21. CLEAN UP TIME! and final inspection.

Hope this helps!