Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Having a hard time trying to remove a toilet tank.

How do you get those two screws off?
They are just stuck!
How do the pros do this? Do they use a special tool or do they just drill the damn screws off?

Those cheap brass metals just deteriorate as I put any torque on them while my other hand is holding the bottom nut!

The "pros" remove the nuts, not the bolts. The rubber washer that is under the head of the bold will not permit you to move it. If you buy a new toilet and read the directions, it tells you not to screw the bolt into the nut and not to turn the bolt into the washer. Good luck.

I use a sawzall wrench for them with a 14" blade.

>>The rubber washer that is under the head of the bold will not permit you to move it. If you buy a new toilet and read the directions, it tells you not to screw the bolt into the nut and not to turn the bolt into the washer. Good luck.<<

I'm having same problem as the orig. poster. :wall: I've been turning the nut, not the bolt head, but the nut is completely rusted to the bolt threads. The bolt is spinning around inside the tank, rubber washer is there and looks to be in good condition but it isn't stopping the bolt from spinning inside of it. I've tried WD40 but it hasn't loosened up the nut. Had my wife use a screwdriver in the bolt head slot but it just strips the slot.

Any other suggestions? A hacksaw?

jpaykel, I would use one of those handles that hold a hacksaw blade. They get into the hard to reach areas. The blade will also flex a little so you aren't banging your knuckles. You may still have to have the wife back up the head as it will probably turn since the bolt is loose. Good luck.

I also have a problem removing the bolts of a toilet tank. Originally I was only replacing the flush valve but noticed that the tank wobbled slightly. Although the washers are not totally rotted, I'm sure they have somewhat decomposed (I have no idea when bolts, nuts, or washers were last replaced).

So I went out and bought new washers but not new bolts and nuts. Using a large slot screwdriver and a vice-grip, I can remove the wing nut on one side but still cannot remove the bolt or make it move up at all. Using the same tools, the other side will turn until the vice-grip reaches the wall but will not further loosen at all. I applied WD-40 last evening but still no change as of today. The slot in the bolt head threatens to strip if I try too hard.

So I have now tightened the one wing-nut as much as I can, hoping that that will prevent water leakage from both sides (not that I had any before) but the tank is quite uneven with the flush side lower.

I'm looking for help here before I install the new FluidMaster flush valve.

B

Bernie157
Time to buy new bolts and washers. Most bolts come with the washer on the bolt (not all) You are not supposed to turn the bolt. This will strip the rubber in the washer and increase the chances of a leak. The tank should be tightened down to where the tank just touches the bowl and is firm (not moving). If the tank is not seated evenly it increases the chance of it breaking when someone leans back on it. It may not be leaking now but it will later or break the tank or bowl.

Hi, empty the tank, put vise grips on the bolts under the tank to keep the bolts from spinning then drill the head off start with 1/8 in in the center then work your way up. Replace the bolts. You may want to install a better grade of washer than comes with the kit.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

I don't think it would be possible to drill out the bolts from the inside of the tank. Bad part would be vibration that could break the tank.

Majak..., your answer to buy new bolts is nice (and I considered doing it rather than buying just new washers) but if I can't get the old bolts out, I am stuck short of buying and installing a new toilet - no?

B

Bernie 157 If you are still having problems removing toilet tank bolts, this is what I suggest, if you have a Jab Saw [this is nothing but a handle for a hack-saw blade] put blade in the handle so it cuts on the pull stroke, if you don't have one wrap tape around the end so you don't cut yourself, put blade between tank and bowl where the bolt is, proceed to cut; you may have to have someone hold bolt so it dosen't spin. This may take five mins., buy new new tank kit and you are home free. You don't need a new toilet! Lots of luck.

I never did saw off the heads or replace the tank-to-base bolts. As I said before I tightened the one wing nut that I could turn so the the tank doesn't rock as much (hardly at all) but is now not level. The left, flush handle and Fluidmaster, side is lower than the right. I do not detect any leakage at all from the tank.

Then I installed the new FluidMaster 400A (as stated above or in another thread?).

I also bought and installed a new 9" supply hose, it looks like knit metal, since the old one was kinking when I tried to screw on and tighten.

So since the above has been accomplished, my new problem is that about every 10 or 15 minutes or so (I haven't timed it), the toilet runs about a second or less refilling the tank. Water is not up to the top of the filler tube and the flapper appears to be doing its job correctly.

Where else could it be leaking from? I don't know what to try now.

B

Hello, A possible reason for the toilet to leak is because the overflow
hose from the ballcock goes to far down into the overflow tube and the
pressure of the water prevents the flapper from seating properly.
Another reason could be with the hose to far down in the overflow
tube,it will siphon water out of the tank.
To check remove the hose from the overflowtube. If that was your
problem hook the hose to the top of the overflow tube.
Good Luck Woodbutcher