Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - wall material is not going well over the edges

Not sure if this should be posed in the bathroom remodeling instead. I am using a greenboard to finish up my bathroom wherever it’s adjacent to the shower base, I finally installed . Having problems keeping things straight (straight is the way I prefer them)
Shower base flange is about a ¼ “ plus to attach them I used stainless screws that protrude even further. I assume that my greenboard should overlap the 1” flange, but when it does, it screws up everything around it, i.e. it comes on a little angle t the rest of the wallboard I am installing. Is there any way around it? Thanks for all your help.

Not sure if this should be posed in the "walls" instead. I am using a greenboard to finish up my bathroom wherever it’s adjacent to the shower base, I finally installed . Having problems keeping things straight (straight is the way I prefer them)
Shower base flange is about a ¼ “ + plus, to attach them I used stainless screws that protrude even further. I assume that my greenboard should overlap the ~ 1” flange, but when it does, it screws up everything around it, i.e. it comes on a little angle to the rest of the wallboard I am installing. Is there any way around it? Thanks for all your help.

You could post it in the ceramic tile forum[be prepared for some grief about the greenboard]. This is also a problem with tile. Anyway bad news is you should have firred out the studs and used different screws. I would just come down to the top of the flange and fill the space with thinset or mastic or nothing. You didn't mention what you were putting on the walls around the tub. I guess tile. Check out the tile forum though, they may have a better solution

First, go back and countersink the screws... that will buy you up to 1/8th inch or more...... you could possibly shim the wall studs closest to the shower enclosure... you'll still have the deflection angle, but it won't be noticeable.

Additionally, when you float your mud, use a wide (12inch) blade... you'll probably never notice the issue.........

#1. If you plan on tiling your shower, you should not be using greenboard.
if you are installing a plastic or fiberglass tub surround then that should work

#2. take down what you have and fir..fur? out your studs. The wallboards should come down straight .

#3. If t his messes up the wallboards next to it, buy some decorative tile to make up the difference, else, demolish any wallboard on the same plane and fir out the whole thing.

What are you planning on doing with this shower? tile?

You could post it in the ceramic tile forum[be prepared for some grief about the greenboard]. This is also a problem with tile. Anyway bad news is you should have firred out the studs and used different screws. I would just come down to the top of the flange and fill the space with thinset or mastic or nothing. You didn't mention what you were putting on the walls around the tub. I guess tile. Check out the tile forum though, they may have a better solution


As I read the question - I assumed only the walls adjacent to the shower pan are greenboard..???? As mentioned above, the actual shower walls should be a proper material if tile is in your future - greenboard is okay for fiberglass/plastic enclosures...

Thought I read somewhere that all the sheetrock in a bathroom now has to be greenboard.

Nope - not necessary.... and, in fact not allowed in some areas of the bathroom without proper prep work.... Adjacent to the shower is good.... Above the shower walls is good.... shower ceiling is bad, without proper support... etc., etc., etc.,

What exactly is the opposition to greenboard? While going through several new homes being built, they were using greenboard in the bathrooms around the shower. Also, the two bathrooms in my house had greenboard behind the tile. My house is 16 years old, and there wasnt any water damage behind the old wall that I removed.

hokiefan,

You're a little late in responding to this post, like 30 days!

What was once considered OK is not anymore. You were lucky after 16 years. As thezster mentioned where one uses greenboardand and where to use a cement board is a real issue.

The below is a good example of that. Those using greenboard for a tiled wall are asking for problems when tile work is not done well and even then it is not recommended.

What products can be used in high moisture areas such as tub/shower surrounds, gang showers, or other areas?
DUROCK® Brand Cement Board is the best product for these areas. It is extremely moisture durable and offers mold resistance. The Tile Council of America does not recommend the use of paper faced gypsum substrates in these areas. USG supports this recommendation therefore we do not recommend that SHEETROCK® Brand Gypsum Panels, Water-Resistant or SHEETROCK® Brand HUMITEK™ Gypsum Panels be used in these areas.

Where should SHEETROCK® Brand Gypsum Panels, Water-Resistant be used?
SHEETROCK® Brand Gypsum Panels, WR are for interior areas where incidental moisture is a concern, but where added mold resistance is not a requirement.


http://www.cgcinc.com/pdf/howtos/EDR_6209.pdf

Hope this helps!

Someone also mentioned to me that using greenboard on the ceiling is prohibited because of the possibility of collecting water from the leaking roof... I never heard of it and used it anyway :) because if any water does collect on the greenboard due to it's water resistance, it will leak out trough my bathroom fan opening before allowing greenboard to collapse. I doubt any inspector is going to scratch paint off the ceiling to check if it's a regular sheetrock or green. ;)

99.9% probability that you're just fine....

The argument against greenboard on the ceiling, as I understand it, is that it's not designed to hang on anything greater than 12inch centers.... And I agree, it's almost laughable. However - I do tend to go with the experts on whatever I can......

were I You... I wouldn't worry one tiny bit....