Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Shower Installation

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View Full Version : Shower Installation


aro
08-22-05, 10:33 AM
Please take a look at the picture below and let me know if you think that something needs to be changed. Also, I have some questions on fittings:
1. Should I use Teflon tape on the adapters or Teflon paste?
2. Will it be a problem to use galvanized iron Ell adapter on the diverter outlet to hand shower? I wanted to drill the hole in the stud, but it will be to close to the edge and I thought I would use galvanized iron Ell to take pipe up and make hole 5”-6” above the diverter to bring pipe down to drop ear elbow.
I don’t have any experience doing this type of work, and I wouldn’t even think to star it without the help from this forum. Thanks for your help.

<img src="http://images.snapfish.com/3447954%3B23232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E234%3A%3D%3B87%3D497%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3A4%3B%3C6626%3Aot1lsi">


notuboo
08-22-05, 06:26 PM
I'd sure look at water hammer arrestors on the inlet water lines. Local code may or may not require them, but you are moving a large amount of water at one time in a relative small pipe.

I would use use paste not tape. It's just a personal choice which others will disagree with because of their personal choices.

Not a problem with the galvanized fitting. Why didn't you just go ahead and drop it down like the body sprays?

You are going to just plug the openings and pressure test everything before you close up the wall? Also maybe hook up the hand spray and make sure it works the valve as it should?

Just a couple of thoughts...Good luck...

majakdragon
08-22-05, 08:46 PM
One question. Why would you use a galvanized fitting when you can get the same thing in brass? Rust will be coming soon. Good luck.


aro
08-23-05, 09:55 AM
I have decided to make a hole in the stud and drop the pipe down to the hand shower using the cupper adapter and Ell. Originally I wanted to take it up and then down to protect the stud by not having the hole to close to the edge, but I guess ½ “ hole on the edge of 4” stud will not make the stud to weak.

Notuboo, thanks for the water hammer arrestors tip. I was searching to get one and couldn’t find any in major home supply store. There are different types available on internet. I’m not sure what should I look in the hammer arrestor, and which type should I use. Thanks for the tips.

notuboo
08-23-05, 05:23 PM
Check with your local code officials, I know it's a pain, but you need to do this.

Ask if it is allowed to have mechanical hammer arrestors installed inside wall cavities that are not accessable. Diaphram type arrestors like what Soiux Chief makes are great and allowed where I am at.

The standard air chamber which is just a sealed tube one size larger than the pipe (3/4" for 1/2" or 1" for 3/4") will get water logged given enough time. Code provision state "they are to be made for self draining...blah, blah..." but who really recharges them every few months or year or so.

Now the counter arguement for a mechanical arrestor is, "it's a mechanical device doomed for failure at some point..."

Well, you do what you think is good for you.

Good luck with your project...

aro
08-23-05, 11:30 PM
Thanks a lot Notuboo, I’m going to get the pair of Sioux Chief 660-2B 1/2" MIP thread connection water hammer arresters (if I can get the approval from the city plumber). Water pressure in my house is 73 PSI and I know that most likely I would have the issue with water hammer. The other concern that I had was that the valve that I’m installing is recommended to operate under 45 PSI, although the pressure range in the manual specified from 20 to 70. Do you think that additional device needs to be installed to reduce the water pressure as well? Thanks again for your help.