Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Long "seamless" transition to tile possible?

Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.




nvisser
08-22-05, 07:23 AM
Our house has a "great room" (approx 22' x 26') which is currently half tile (kitchen/dining) and half carpet (living), and has radiant floor heat. We want to replace the carpet with cork, bamboo or wood. Questions...

(1) Since we have radiant heat, we are forced to do a "floating" installation (laminate). Right?

(2) The transition will run right down the middle of the room and will be about 22' long. A "T-molding" will stick up too much to be safe, practical, and appealing (unless there is a low profile option in metal/plastic). Is it possible to create a "seamless" (flush) transition in this situation? Assuming I can find the right combo of flooring/underlayment to match the height of the tile, I have thought of two possiblities....
(A) Install against the tile (little or no gap) and nail/glue at this transition. I am worried about expansion forces here (especially wood pushing laterally on the tile). I won't do this unless the manufacturer says its OK.
(B) Install with a gap but use some kind of special compressible transition material (perhaps some kind of foam or rubber) designed for this application. They probably don't make such a product, but you never know.

Thanks for your help!

Nick

PS: We live in Wyoming where it is very dry and temperatures vary dramatically.


Marco1
08-22-05, 09:06 AM
Engineered would be the safer, cheaper/easier way to go with radiant. I somewhat disagree about t-molds being intrusive, they work well, but different tastes... You can do a flush transition, cork is often used for expansion strips in wide rooms, or you could use an elastomeric sealer. I would advise using an engineered with a quatersawn core that will move vertiaclly more than horizontal.

nvisser
08-22-05, 11:57 AM
Thanks for the reply. Seems that the T-molding will have to rise 1/4" or more above the adjacent floor to be strong enough to withstand use. Right? The transition will be right in a major traffic area. I don't think that will work well for us. Maybe I can use metal or plastic to get a nearly flat "T."

Can you tell me a little more about your other options as I am a total newbie on wood/engineered floors...

(1) Cork sounds great (especially if we did an engineered cork floor). Is that going to be available from flooring retailers for this specific purpose? Or would I just trim/use a piece of cork underlayment?

(2) Elastomeric sealer: Likewise, is a flooring retailer going to have a product for this specific purpose, or what exactly would I use?

(3) Quartersawn core: Not sure exactly what this means but the important point is that it is engineered to expand/contract more vertically and less horizontally (right?). Sounds great. Searching around online for quartersawn engineered/laminate flooring finds me a product by Mohawk. I do see a bunch of non-engineered products. I would like to compare with others. Can you suggest any other brands/products, or where to start looking.

Thanks again Marco1!

Any other opinions/ideas?


Marco1
08-23-05, 08:37 AM
Any cork will be fine. Cork flooring, underlayment, it all works. It is available in some harware stores too. Cut with regular saws.

I saw elastomeric sealers in a chain store last night. There is another very good brand that comes in colors availbale in some lesser known stores. Think its called Big Stretch. I've used it on my house with good results. I'm sure there are many others.

I don't know who all uses quartered cores. Kahrs does. I think most 3-plys probably do, but thats speculation.