Doors and Windows - retrofit milgard questions
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gastrek
08-21-05, 09:09 PM
Hi,
I'm planning on a DIY install of 6 Milgard Classic windows and have a problem. I can't figure out how to measure the window height. I've read the advice on this site and others, measure from the top frame (where the top sash hits) down to the sill. The problem is that our sills (very old, wood, double hung windows) have a little extra strip of wood, right where I would expect to measure to. I don't know if I measure to the top of this strip or the bottom.
It is hard to describe, so here is a link to a few pictures:
Window sills with odd angled wood strip (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gastrek/my_photos)
Anyone seen this on old window sills? Where to I take the height measurement? The extra strip is like 1/2 inch high, so I need to get it right. It also has a different slope than the outside sill, it has a bigger angle.
Milgard sells a sill trim piece that looks like a wedge. Is this for these odd sills?
Any advise is appreciated.
I'm planning on a DIY install of 6 Milgard Classic windows and have a problem. I can't figure out how to measure the window height. I've read the advice on this site and others, measure from the top frame (where the top sash hits) down to the sill. The problem is that our sills (very old, wood, double hung windows) have a little extra strip of wood, right where I would expect to measure to. I don't know if I measure to the top of this strip or the bottom.
It is hard to describe, so here is a link to a few pictures:
Window sills with odd angled wood strip (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gastrek/my_photos)
Anyone seen this on old window sills? Where to I take the height measurement? The extra strip is like 1/2 inch high, so I need to get it right. It also has a different slope than the outside sill, it has a bigger angle.
Milgard sells a sill trim piece that looks like a wedge. Is this for these odd sills?
Any advise is appreciated.
XSleeper
08-21-05, 10:03 PM
I would chisel that extra 1/2" piece off, and measure down to the sill. I prefer to subtract 1/4" from the width and height when ordering replacement windows, and request that the factory install 1/4" open cell foam tape.
What could happen is, if you don't chisel that piece off, your "wedge shaped" sill expander might not be big enough to cover the gap underneath your window (the replacement window is flat on the bottom, while your sill drops away at about a 10 degree angle.) This gap is usually 5/8-7/8", but if you set the window on the 1/2" piece, that gap becomes 1 1/8-1 3/8" which is probably larger than your "wedge shaped" sill expander will be.
The only problem removing the 1/2" piece would create, is that if you are getting double-hungs, the lift rail will be closer to the window stool. Usually this isn't a problem, because the window frame is thick enough to provide you with enough clearance to get your fingers under the lift rail. The problem usually occurs with casements, which have hardware mounted closer to the bottom of the frame. If the stool is more than 1 1/8" thick when the 1/2" piece is removed, a casement crank would probably hit on the stool and not allow the window to go down far enough to set on the sill. Just wanted to mention that possibility.
What could happen is, if you don't chisel that piece off, your "wedge shaped" sill expander might not be big enough to cover the gap underneath your window (the replacement window is flat on the bottom, while your sill drops away at about a 10 degree angle.) This gap is usually 5/8-7/8", but if you set the window on the 1/2" piece, that gap becomes 1 1/8-1 3/8" which is probably larger than your "wedge shaped" sill expander will be.
The only problem removing the 1/2" piece would create, is that if you are getting double-hungs, the lift rail will be closer to the window stool. Usually this isn't a problem, because the window frame is thick enough to provide you with enough clearance to get your fingers under the lift rail. The problem usually occurs with casements, which have hardware mounted closer to the bottom of the frame. If the stool is more than 1 1/8" thick when the 1/2" piece is removed, a casement crank would probably hit on the stool and not allow the window to go down far enough to set on the sill. Just wanted to mention that possibility.