Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Stripping 50 years of paint?

I received my grandfather's butcher block table. I sat on this table as a child and watched my grandfather perform his work (in the early 60's before he retired).

How would you suggest I removed 50 years of paint layers from the legs of the table. I already have them removed. By their weight and smell, I'd say they're oak. The 300 lb. (or more) top is clearly maple. I'd like to get rid of the paint on the legs and restore them to a natural finish since functionality isn't that important to me. I don't have a lathe, so that's not an option.

If there is a better board to ask this question, feel free to tell me so.

I would probably go to a refinishing shop and have them dip it. they will come out beautiful. Otherwise get a mask,eye protection,rubber gloves, some paint stripper,soft toothbrush like brushes and some scotchbrite pads and have at it.

I don't know what they charge for dipping, but it will cost you time and money with probably lesser results doing this yourself. It is not hard to doityourself just messy, and a little dangerous.

I assume these are somewhat intricate since you mentioned a lathe

I would also add that if you intend to sand this you should test the paint for lead content before starting. Scrape off some of the top layers and you can get a simple lead test kit that basically looks like a cotton swab that you wipe on the exposed paint and it will turn a color if lead is present.Most impotant if there are any children around.

Dipping is a great idea. If it turns out to be cost-prohibitive, I've had light years better results using the aerosol spray cans of paint stripper than using the gel/paste stuff.

I did this exact thing to a nice maple table that my mother had enameled with white. She did a pretty good job, but since I prefer wood to plastic (in the looks department) I stripped it. The legs are round turned with several beads and such, ending in a queen ann type foot.

I aerosol stripped it, which took of most all of the paint and much of the previous stain (I hate stained wood), and the little stain in the "crevices" I left since it gave the maple a nice antiqued look.

A stiff wire brush will work the crevices for you well. Once you've stripped it to where only sanding it would improve it, rinse well with water (don't let it soak the wood, only rinse it and air dry it). Once dry, a good grade 60 or 80 grit sandpaper will do well at removing more paint and the damaged wood surface (which is very superficial). If the legs are fairly uncluttered with fancy turning tricks (ie, a nice smooth taper), a random orbit sander on medium setting can make this easier. Do the last couple of sandings (100, 120, and maybe 150) by hand with the grain.

Finish with your preferred clearcoat. I prefer to spray on catalyzed conversion varnishes or catalyzed polyurethanes, but they are not easy to find if you're not a professional and require a respirator.