Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - finishing stairs and landings

hiya everybody!

just bought my house, and started tearing it up only a couple of weeks later. :D

there are a set of stairs going from 1st to 2nd floor that were covered in carpet. its a newer construction (1995), and workmanship wasnt the highest of quality. plywood was used everywhere under all carpets. now, for floors, i plan on adding hardwood directly on top. thats straight forward. the problem is withthe stairs and 2 landings.

first - the treads are pine(?), with a lot of paint overspray, but i am sanding, then staining and polyeurethaning them, with white risers and ballisters. downside is that they are framed (dadoed?), so no exposed sides. this will have to stay for now, i cant afford to redo the entire staircase. i think once done, itll be a big improvement over the carpet.

the first landing is about 32"x32", and the 2nd is probably 8'x4', both made of plywood.

here is my dilemma:
do i:
1. replace plywood with tongue and groove flooring? probably the smartest solution, assuming thickness matches up (3/4" i think), but the plywood runs under the walls. how do i lay the planks properly? just cut close to walls, hope they dont float, and put quarter rounds to cover edges?

2. since i will be installing either hardwood or laminate in the 2 bedrooms on the 2nd floor, do i continue with the hardwood onto the landing? this will look the most seamless, but will create a 3/8-1/2 inch higher step at the last step (the landing).

3. continue with the engineered floor plan, and just end the floor near the stair with a transition such as a ramp. i see this as a tripping hazard.

4. hardwood/laminate the stairs as well, so everything is raised and no noticeable trip hazards? this may solve my problem with #2, but wont allow me (my wife) to have white risers. heh.

i like #2 the best b/c it will allow the entire 2nd floor to flow best, without having stupid saddles for height transitions, but am worried that even 3/8" will be enough to throw people for a loop on the top 2 steps.

any ideas, comments, other suggestions? i really dont know which is the best solution. :(

ive attached some pics to see what i mean..
thx!

http://www.o2resources.com/pics/stairs1.JPG

http://www.o2resources.com/pics/mid%20landing.JPG

http://www.o2resources.com/pics/2nd%20floor%20landing.JPG

Code (in my area) allows a 1/4" difference between tread heights. Varying tread heights is a problem when they are built for carpet. Ususally the sub-treads are adjusted to accomodate. If you are installing hardwood upstairs (#2), you should bite the bullet and throw in solid oak treads as well. You can still have painted risers and the cost is about $30/tread.

thanks for the reply.. interesting approach. wont adding hardwood add a significant amount of height to my rise, which is already 8 1/4"?
or, are you suggesting to rip out treads and plywood, and install all new hardwood?

I am guessing here not know the whole situation, but in my standard job, yes the pine would come off, and some of the existing ply also to alow height adjustment. The bottom tread will need work and maybe 2 or 3 above it to blend in that 1/4" rise differential. The same at the top. Use 3/8" and 1/2" sheets to adjust.
Or, would it be possible to remove that top pine tread and raise it?

Look at this thread of messages

Stairs, Before and After (http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=222953)


I also brought it TTT :thumbup:

Marco - removing the pine treads isnt a good choice. its dadoed into the stringers. im guessing the stringer sides are also tucked in under the framing.


Carpet - thanks, you do amazing work!

so, expanding on your idea -
cut bullnose (think a jigsaw is best approach?)

add new treads (most likely leave riser exposed so i can paint, but have to see how it looks, depth wise)

what 'model' wood did you use? is br-111 readily available?

landings will now match up, and i can continue into 2 upper bedrooms as well!

design question now:

eventually, 1st floor will be a dark, maybe almost black, hardwood floor.

i assume stairs should match, but 2nd floor rooms will be a light wood, some sort of maple color. do i make stairs and landings all the darker color, then just do the rooms the maple? would this be 'correct'?

thx!

Do the treads dark, and the risers with the lighter wood of the second story, up stairs. It will tie it all together. :thumbup:

Yes, if you go wiith new treads you will need to cut the pine bullnose. Jigsaw waorks with a hand saw for the corners. Then you will need to reface the riser too to cover that cut.
If you go that route, I strongly recommend a solid 1 1/8" tread. Much, much cleaner.

Do the treads dark, and the risers with the lighter wood of the second story, up stairs. It will tie it all together. :thumbup:


now thats a nice idea. :thumbup: :thumbup:
it allows me to do the 2nd floor in the lighter color. the black wood wouldnt work up there, it would make it look too small.

good way to end my day of cutting all bullnoses!

Yes, if you go wiith new treads you will need to cut the pine bullnose. Jigsaw waorks with a hand saw for the corners. Then you will need to reface the riser too to cover that cut.
If you go that route, I strongly recommend a solid 1 1/8" tread. Much, much cleaner.


ya, figured that out today, fine tooth saw with soft blade, done in no time!
i like the resurfacing, also covers (somewhat) where the old bullnose was dadoed into the stringer, so less wood putty. :)

btw, think its ok if the stain isnt an exact match to the 1st floor wood (most likely an almost black color)? i guess it will match the banister though. i agree about a full tread though.. good taste. ;)