Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - softwood flooring ???
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The King
08-15-05, 08:27 PM
Can anyone help me with this one.?
I have just finished building my house. The upstairs bedrooms ,landing is installed with white deal t&g flooring. Before plasterers arrived I coated roughly the floors with varnish to protect it.
I am now in the process of removing the protection layer and wish to give it a good coating. I have used the ind. square pad sander but to no avail, it only remove the edges of the board leaving the centre of the boards still covered in varnish, I have also used the makita hand belt sander which does work but extremely labour intensive.
I put a level down across the floor and noticed a slight concave on the boards.
Is my only alternative is to use a industrial belt sander and drive down the nails 2mm or so???? please your help wood be much appreciated.
Kind regards,
The King
I have just finished building my house. The upstairs bedrooms ,landing is installed with white deal t&g flooring. Before plasterers arrived I coated roughly the floors with varnish to protect it.
I am now in the process of removing the protection layer and wish to give it a good coating. I have used the ind. square pad sander but to no avail, it only remove the edges of the board leaving the centre of the boards still covered in varnish, I have also used the makita hand belt sander which does work but extremely labour intensive.
I put a level down across the floor and noticed a slight concave on the boards.
Is my only alternative is to use a industrial belt sander and drive down the nails 2mm or so???? please your help wood be much appreciated.
Kind regards,
The King
Lugnut
08-16-05, 02:58 PM
If you want to remove the varnish, regardless of whether it is 50 years old or 24 hours old, then rent a floor sander and get busy.
You should have never put the varnish on it if that is not the finish you wanted.
You should have never put the varnish on it if that is not the finish you wanted.
Carpets Done Wright
08-17-05, 07:42 AM
Obviously the boards have gained moisture on the bottom of the board, or lost moisture from the top of the board. There is a moisture content imbalance from the top of the board and the bottom.
Because your only able to sand the edges, tells me the floor is cupped.
If you sand it flat and the board comes back to equilibrium, you will then be left with a crowned boards. Opposite of cupping. :wall:
If you feel like you can't hand sand it, you will have to get a professional sander. Small areas can be done with an edger but the cupped boards are going to give you fits!
Because your only able to sand the edges, tells me the floor is cupped.
If you sand it flat and the board comes back to equilibrium, you will then be left with a crowned boards. Opposite of cupping. :wall:
If you feel like you can't hand sand it, you will have to get a professional sander. Small areas can be done with an edger but the cupped boards are going to give you fits!
em69
08-17-05, 10:28 AM
It would have been far better to lay down cardboard over top of the floor. This is less labour intensive and less expensive.
By sanding the floors, you are reducing the life of the floor by at least one sanding cycle. Floors can only be sanded about 3 times before you get too close to the tongue and groove.
If you used t&g flooring, why do you have to drive down the nails??
By sanding the floors, you are reducing the life of the floor by at least one sanding cycle. Floors can only be sanded about 3 times before you get too close to the tongue and groove.
If you used t&g flooring, why do you have to drive down the nails??