Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - advice please on hardwood installation
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v1rtu0s1ty
08-14-05, 12:31 AM
Hi,
I will be DIY'ing my hardwood installation but am having a hard time understand these links for some tips,
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Subject/Floors/Wood/HardwoodInstallation.html
http://www.faceliftfloors.com/q-and-a/framefireplace.php.
On that site, it tells that most installers use fireplace as focal point. My fireplace has a ceramic tile on the floor about 4 pieces together(12"x48" long).
However, I couldn't visualize how to get started with those border strips.
The reason I am having a hardtime is the tounge and the grove. If I face the tounge towards my fireplace(right side strip), there will be a cavity. I'm really confused.
Can someone please help me? Picture will help me so much or even just a picture drawn either in paint
Thanks,
Neil
I will be DIY'ing my hardwood installation but am having a hard time understand these links for some tips,
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Subject/Floors/Wood/HardwoodInstallation.html
http://www.faceliftfloors.com/q-and-a/framefireplace.php.
On that site, it tells that most installers use fireplace as focal point. My fireplace has a ceramic tile on the floor about 4 pieces together(12"x48" long).
However, I couldn't visualize how to get started with those border strips.
The reason I am having a hardtime is the tounge and the grove. If I face the tounge towards my fireplace(right side strip), there will be a cavity. I'm really confused.
Can someone please help me? Picture will help me so much or even just a picture drawn either in paint
Thanks,
Neil
v1rtu0s1ty
08-14-05, 12:35 AM
I'm ordering a 2 1/4" hardwood strips(maple or cherry) from lumber liquidators. Someone told me that 2 1/4" sizes are crap. The reason I'm getting these sizes is because of my house is small. Smaller sizes make the room big. So if I get wider strips or planks, my room might look smaller.
Is it true that 2 1/4" strips are crap?
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Neil
Is it true that 2 1/4" strips are crap?
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Neil
Carpets Done Wright
08-14-05, 08:00 AM
When you do your border make it so the tongue is out on all sides.
Then you can either cut a groove or you can do like I do. Cutting a groove on a thin board leaves little room for error, and it could be higher ot lower then need. Here's what I do. After making the cut on the end of the board(yours will be some were close to a 45º as your FP is at a 45º) Have your table saw set so the blade is raised out of the table, as much as the top part of the groove side. Use a piece of flooring to guage this, on the groove side, of coarse. Make the blade just touch the under side of the top of the groove.
Once the board is cut at that pefect angle to line up with the border around the FP, run that end over your set table saw blade. Dry fit to see if you have the right height cut off the bottom. Then use Elmers wood glue(they have a dark glue for dark wood out now) and put it on the tongue of the border, where that board will sit. Place the board into the adhesive.
Twalla!
On the 45º cuts within the border at the corners of the FP, I drill 2 very small holes in one side and insert pin nails glueing and tapping them in just a little to get a bite inside the wood. Then on the concrete slide it up and push just a little for the nail heads to make a mark impression on the other board your joining at the 45º cut. drill the same small holes at those marks. Dry fit first! Then place them into the adhesive on the concrete and before seating the pins, put a spot of elmers wood glue where the holes are for the pins to insert into.
Tape everything together as the adhesive sets!!! Pull it over no longer then the next day or it could peel the finish off the flooring.
Be real carefull of anything purchased at Lumber Liquidators! It takes a special installer to turn rotten lemons, into lemonade. I have not messed with one of the bellawood floors, that wasn't a nightmare to install.
Then you can either cut a groove or you can do like I do. Cutting a groove on a thin board leaves little room for error, and it could be higher ot lower then need. Here's what I do. After making the cut on the end of the board(yours will be some were close to a 45º as your FP is at a 45º) Have your table saw set so the blade is raised out of the table, as much as the top part of the groove side. Use a piece of flooring to guage this, on the groove side, of coarse. Make the blade just touch the under side of the top of the groove.
Once the board is cut at that pefect angle to line up with the border around the FP, run that end over your set table saw blade. Dry fit to see if you have the right height cut off the bottom. Then use Elmers wood glue(they have a dark glue for dark wood out now) and put it on the tongue of the border, where that board will sit. Place the board into the adhesive.
Twalla!
On the 45º cuts within the border at the corners of the FP, I drill 2 very small holes in one side and insert pin nails glueing and tapping them in just a little to get a bite inside the wood. Then on the concrete slide it up and push just a little for the nail heads to make a mark impression on the other board your joining at the 45º cut. drill the same small holes at those marks. Dry fit first! Then place them into the adhesive on the concrete and before seating the pins, put a spot of elmers wood glue where the holes are for the pins to insert into.
Tape everything together as the adhesive sets!!! Pull it over no longer then the next day or it could peel the finish off the flooring.
Be real carefull of anything purchased at Lumber Liquidators! It takes a special installer to turn rotten lemons, into lemonade. I have not messed with one of the bellawood floors, that wasn't a nightmare to install.