Residential & Commercial Security - Locks, Keys & Dead Bolts - Flimsy Metal Door
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Flimsy Metal Door
handiman
08-13-05, 01:01 AM
Hello all, I am new here. I would like to know how I would go about repairing this flimsy metal door. After the door is locked (there is only one deadbolt on this inward opening door) both the top and bottom corners go inward when pushed and exposes a sizeable gap. what is the best and most efficient way of fixing this. I am not that much of a handyman but do have some basic skills.
thank you all.
thank you all.
cuedude
08-13-05, 03:48 AM
Hi Handiman,
Welcome to the board. Am I reading this right? The door is so flimsy that when pushed on, on the top or bottom corner they push in? My impression is that the door needs to be replaced. In construction of the metal door, there is a "backbone", or brace within that sometimes become detached. When this happens, the only repair I've seen work is to weld the pieces together, and then refinish the door. Not an easy fix, and it's way too costly. It would be easier on you to just replace it, and have the peace of mind that the door is solid. Sorry I can't offer better advise than that.
cuedude
Welcome to the board. Am I reading this right? The door is so flimsy that when pushed on, on the top or bottom corner they push in? My impression is that the door needs to be replaced. In construction of the metal door, there is a "backbone", or brace within that sometimes become detached. When this happens, the only repair I've seen work is to weld the pieces together, and then refinish the door. Not an easy fix, and it's way too costly. It would be easier on you to just replace it, and have the peace of mind that the door is solid. Sorry I can't offer better advise than that.
cuedude
Kobuchi
08-13-05, 03:10 PM
"Best" and "most efficient" are at odds if you care what it looks like, or how easy it is to open. Do you mind a... uh, military... solution?
cuedude
08-13-05, 03:59 PM
"Best" and "most efficient" are at odds if you care what it looks like, or how easy it is to open. Do you mind a... uh, military... solution?
Hi Kobushi,
By all means, give it up man. As a practicing locksmith, I am always looking for answers. So....spill it!!
cuedude
Hi Kobushi,
By all means, give it up man. As a practicing locksmith, I am always looking for answers. So....spill it!!
cuedude
Kobuchi
08-13-05, 05:16 PM
Ignoring that the frame may already be the weakest part here, he could reinforce the door, or provide high and low bolts.
If opened only from inside (a lot of basement back doors are used that way), a couple of surface bolts on the door seems the obvious solution. 2 ugly points.
"Not that much of a handyman" could reinforce the door by screwing pre-drilled angle steel along the free edge. Hacksaw required. Add another piece along the frame, you'd have to dislocate the bolts to kick through. 5-10 ugly points.
Buy a new door - 0 ugly points, low DIY score, and money.
He could also look at narrowing that gap between frame and door, or better obstructing it from outside, so no lever can fit in there even if the door is deflected.
In my experience, doors give way to crooks when the strike breaks out of the frame, from kicking. These frames are often made of crummy finger-jointed softwood, and the strikes are screwed only into the frame with short screws. In this case, a springy door actually absorbs some kicking force not landed directly on the bolt.
If opened only from inside (a lot of basement back doors are used that way), a couple of surface bolts on the door seems the obvious solution. 2 ugly points.
"Not that much of a handyman" could reinforce the door by screwing pre-drilled angle steel along the free edge. Hacksaw required. Add another piece along the frame, you'd have to dislocate the bolts to kick through. 5-10 ugly points.
Buy a new door - 0 ugly points, low DIY score, and money.
He could also look at narrowing that gap between frame and door, or better obstructing it from outside, so no lever can fit in there even if the door is deflected.
In my experience, doors give way to crooks when the strike breaks out of the frame, from kicking. These frames are often made of crummy finger-jointed softwood, and the strikes are screwed only into the frame with short screws. In this case, a springy door actually absorbs some kicking force not landed directly on the bolt.
handiman
08-14-05, 03:15 AM
Hi Handiman,
Welcome to the board. Am I reading this right? The door is so flimsy that when pushed on, on the top or bottom corner they push in? My impression is that the door needs to be replaced. In construction of the metal door, there is a "backbone", or brace within that sometimes become detached. When this happens, the only repair I've seen work is to weld the pieces together, and then refinish the door. Not an easy fix, and it's way too costly. It would be easier on you to just replace it, and have the peace of mind that the door is solid. Sorry I can't offer better advise than that.
cuedude
Hi, yes that is right. When pushed on the corners go in. (the corners opposite from the hinges) I had a feeling that the door would need replacing.
Welcome to the board. Am I reading this right? The door is so flimsy that when pushed on, on the top or bottom corner they push in? My impression is that the door needs to be replaced. In construction of the metal door, there is a "backbone", or brace within that sometimes become detached. When this happens, the only repair I've seen work is to weld the pieces together, and then refinish the door. Not an easy fix, and it's way too costly. It would be easier on you to just replace it, and have the peace of mind that the door is solid. Sorry I can't offer better advise than that.
cuedude
Hi, yes that is right. When pushed on the corners go in. (the corners opposite from the hinges) I had a feeling that the door would need replacing.
handiman
08-14-05, 03:16 AM
"Best" and "most efficient" are at odds if you care what it looks like, or how easy it is to open. Do you mind a... uh, military... solution?
I dont care what it looks like. i just need the door to be solid.
I dont care what it looks like. i just need the door to be solid.
handiman
08-14-05, 03:23 AM
Ignoring that the frame may already be the weakest part here, he could reinforce the door, or provide high and low bolts.
If opened only from inside (a lot of basement back doors are used that way), a couple of surface bolts on the door seems the obvious solution. 2 ugly points.
"Not that much of a handyman" could reinforce the door by screwing pre-drilled angle steel along the free edge. Hacksaw required. Add another piece along the frame, you'd have to dislocate the bolts to kick through. 5-10 ugly points.
Buy a new door - 0 ugly points, low DIY score, and money.
He could also look at narrowing that gap between frame and door, or better obstructing it from outside, so no lever can fit in there even if the door is deflected.
In my experience, doors give way to crooks when the strike breaks out of the frame, from kicking. These frames are often made of crummy finger-jointed softwood, and the strikes are screwed only into the frame with short screws. In this case, a springy door actually absorbs some kicking force not landed directly on the bolt.
this solution may work. when you say free edge you mean the top and bottom right? so basically i need 3 pieces of angled steel?
If opened only from inside (a lot of basement back doors are used that way), a couple of surface bolts on the door seems the obvious solution. 2 ugly points.
"Not that much of a handyman" could reinforce the door by screwing pre-drilled angle steel along the free edge. Hacksaw required. Add another piece along the frame, you'd have to dislocate the bolts to kick through. 5-10 ugly points.
Buy a new door - 0 ugly points, low DIY score, and money.
He could also look at narrowing that gap between frame and door, or better obstructing it from outside, so no lever can fit in there even if the door is deflected.
In my experience, doors give way to crooks when the strike breaks out of the frame, from kicking. These frames are often made of crummy finger-jointed softwood, and the strikes are screwed only into the frame with short screws. In this case, a springy door actually absorbs some kicking force not landed directly on the bolt.
this solution may work. when you say free edge you mean the top and bottom right? so basically i need 3 pieces of angled steel?
handiman
08-14-05, 03:24 AM
thanx for the help guys