Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - ceramic tile to hardwood

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View Full Version : ceramic tile to hardwood


handy gal
08-12-05, 03:21 PM
This is my first time in the forum. Like everyone else, I have a project that I am not quite sure how to handle. I am removing 20 year old ceramic tile from my foyer and am going to replace it with hardwood. I have started to remove the tile (which is layed directly on the plywood so at least I do not have to deal with backer board, but it may explaine why there are so many running cracks in the tile, not enough support) and am finding that the thinset is not coming up. My question is, do I have to remove all the thinset or can I sand it down and install the hardwood over the top. Also, I have been using a hammer and a chisel, is there a quicker way to get the tile up?


Evan M.
08-13-05, 07:06 AM
Probably not what you want to hear but ultimately the best thing to do would be to replace the plywood subfloor. What you do now will effect everything in the future and a good strong subfloor will be you best way to get off on the right foot. If you are deadset against doing this (it really is not as bad as it sounds) then you need the surface to be nice and level....meaning get the thinset off. I think scraping is the way to go. After the floor is nice and level put on your moisture barrier and start laying the wood down. I have never had to deal with thinset on plywood before though so maybe someone here will have better advice on what to do.

handy gal
08-13-05, 01:18 PM
Thanks, and you are right it is not really what I want to hear but if replacing the sub floor needs to be done then I will have to do it. What if I just took up the plywood and flipped it over, would that work. The the thinset is on the underside and I do not have to go out and purchase more plywood, plus all the cuts are already made. May make the job less expensive and less work. What do you think?


Evan M.
08-13-05, 01:26 PM
Interesting thought but I think I would still replace instead of flip. What you may find is that any bumps left over from the thinset might cause uneveness. Anything uneven will make laying the floor that much more difficult and may also lead to a pretty squeaky floor among other things. Again though, I have never dealt with anything like this so maybe somebody has a better idea and way you could make it happen without replacing. I just know me.....whenever something like that happens to me I say "%^& it" and start everything from scratch, this way I know it is done right and I won't have any issues later on. What may seem like the easy way out and inexpensive way out may (and usually does) turn out to be the total oposite in not much time.
Hang in there and hopefully somebody with a different idea may poke by.

Carpets Done Wright
08-13-05, 01:50 PM
Yes that is the reason, mainly that you had cracking tile. The wood expands and contracts, and that is what the tile was laid directly on top of, without a slip sheet.


Floor sander or grinder. Goggles, Dust mask, and gloves. Dust control, Dust control, Dust control, Dust control, Dust control, Can't say it enough!!!

handy gal
08-14-05, 07:16 PM
Well I got all the tile up. I used my pneumatic chisel and it worked pretty well. I did close off the rest of the house as best I could but still the dust is everywhere. I used a dust mask with the carbon filter and really liked it, will definately use it again. I am going to get a floor sander and try to smooth the thin set. I really am hoping that this works. Putting down the hard wood should go pretty smoothly as I have done this before but will definately let you know if questions come up. My next project is finishing the basement but I really do not know if I am up to that one. Manily because I want it done yesterday and it will take me forever.

Carpets Done Wright
08-15-05, 08:21 PM
Use the sander to also go over every seam in the plywood subfloor, throughout where the installation will be(sides and ends. It will save you headaches and bad looks later when you start laying the floor, and then you find the proud edges.

20 or 24 grit should work.