Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Removing Existing Countertops
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Dragon77
08-12-05, 01:28 PM
I'm going to be getting new Corian countertops installed (by Lowe's - love the ad typo that they honored, $10/sqft with integrated sink!) but the installation does not include removal of the existing (tile & grout) countertop. I'm wondering if there are any special precautions I should take when tearing off the tile (and whatever's directly under it)?
I need to have the counters ready for them to install when they come.
Thanks for any advice! :)
--- Dragon77
I need to have the counters ready for them to install when they come.
Thanks for any advice! :)
--- Dragon77
Doug Aleshire
08-13-05, 07:02 AM
Dragon77,
The entire countertop must be removed. Corian does not need a substrate to rest upon.
Hope this helps!
The entire countertop must be removed. Corian does not need a substrate to rest upon.
Hope this helps!
Dragon77
08-15-05, 09:03 AM
That's interesting - because they're charging me for a subplatform that they said is necessary ($93.75).
--- Dragon77
--- Dragon77
Doug Aleshire
08-15-05, 09:30 AM
Dragon77,
My response was probably made in haste but the answer was based on a straight forward approach. Here is what changes the install.
Well-constructed, properly installed cabinets can bear the weight of a solid-surface countertop or even granite. Corian does flex if spans are too great and unsupported. You may, as with traditional plastic laminate countertops, have to attach additional support cleats to the cabinet tops, particularly in areas where the countertop will be unsupported — above a dishwasher opening, for example.
You mentioned an undermount sink (a great option with solid-surface countertops) you would have to fasten support cleats for the sink across the tops of the sink-base cabinet make sure all cabinets are sturdy, aligned and flat across the top.
NOTE: The area that I should have mentioned where you NEED a substrate, is if you have an island or peninsula with more than a few inches of countertop overhang.
At that point attaching 3/4-in.-thick plywood to the cabinet tops prior to installing the countertop would be necessary. Obviously, if this is incorporated with the rest of the remaining cabinets, the cleats I mentioned would be 3/4" but no need for full 3/4" sheets here unless we are overhanging a few inches as I mentioned above. The substrate should be sized so the front edge of the countertop fits neatly over the edge of the plywood. The bottom face of the plywood should be flush with the bottom of the countertop edging. For added reinforcement, attach corbels to the cabinet frames.
Hope this helps!
My response was probably made in haste but the answer was based on a straight forward approach. Here is what changes the install.
Well-constructed, properly installed cabinets can bear the weight of a solid-surface countertop or even granite. Corian does flex if spans are too great and unsupported. You may, as with traditional plastic laminate countertops, have to attach additional support cleats to the cabinet tops, particularly in areas where the countertop will be unsupported — above a dishwasher opening, for example.
You mentioned an undermount sink (a great option with solid-surface countertops) you would have to fasten support cleats for the sink across the tops of the sink-base cabinet make sure all cabinets are sturdy, aligned and flat across the top.
NOTE: The area that I should have mentioned where you NEED a substrate, is if you have an island or peninsula with more than a few inches of countertop overhang.
At that point attaching 3/4-in.-thick plywood to the cabinet tops prior to installing the countertop would be necessary. Obviously, if this is incorporated with the rest of the remaining cabinets, the cleats I mentioned would be 3/4" but no need for full 3/4" sheets here unless we are overhanging a few inches as I mentioned above. The substrate should be sized so the front edge of the countertop fits neatly over the edge of the plywood. The bottom face of the plywood should be flush with the bottom of the countertop edging. For added reinforcement, attach corbels to the cabinet frames.
Hope this helps!
Dragon77
08-15-05, 09:45 AM
Doug:
Thanks for the detailed reply :D
I just spoke with DuPont's Customer Service, and they confirmed that it should not have a subplatform (like plywood) as Corian needs to breathe. The largest area would be the bar, which is 3'x6', but the last 2-1/2' extends across the wall in an L shape - but one side of the 6' length has a 15" overhang (which should already have upport under it, as it's heavy tile right now, shouldn't it?) I have no problem putting in some additional cross-supports, if necessary - would they just be even with the top edge of the cabinet structures?
Yes, we went with the integrated sink, but had to go with the set-on backsplash, rather than the fancier cove finish - unfortunately the cove wasn't covered under their mis-print, and it would have cost an additional $972! (almost twice the cost of the countertops themselves!) I'm going to re-caulk it all with some premium clear caulking (the standard caulking they use isn't the best).
I'm going to talk with Lowe's and see why they think that the subplatform is necessary.
--- Dragon77
Thanks for the detailed reply :D
I just spoke with DuPont's Customer Service, and they confirmed that it should not have a subplatform (like plywood) as Corian needs to breathe. The largest area would be the bar, which is 3'x6', but the last 2-1/2' extends across the wall in an L shape - but one side of the 6' length has a 15" overhang (which should already have upport under it, as it's heavy tile right now, shouldn't it?) I have no problem putting in some additional cross-supports, if necessary - would they just be even with the top edge of the cabinet structures?
Yes, we went with the integrated sink, but had to go with the set-on backsplash, rather than the fancier cove finish - unfortunately the cove wasn't covered under their mis-print, and it would have cost an additional $972! (almost twice the cost of the countertops themselves!) I'm going to re-caulk it all with some premium clear caulking (the standard caulking they use isn't the best).
I'm going to talk with Lowe's and see why they think that the subplatform is necessary.
--- Dragon77
Doug Aleshire
08-15-05, 10:05 AM
Dragon77,
You're welcome!
No problem with the 15" inches and the tile floor below if you are using some type of decorative posts.
This part tells me that you need that substrate or strips at a minimum. 6' long with a 15" overhang. The strips sit on top of the base cabinets and then the countertop rests on top. Do you have a bullnose edge on these or is it just flat?
but one side of the 6' length has a 15" overhang (which should already have upport under it, as it's heavy tile right now, shouldn't it?) I have no problem putting in some additional cross-supports, if necessary - would they just be even with the top edge of the cabinet structures?
Does this help?
You're welcome!
No problem with the 15" inches and the tile floor below if you are using some type of decorative posts.
This part tells me that you need that substrate or strips at a minimum. 6' long with a 15" overhang. The strips sit on top of the base cabinets and then the countertop rests on top. Do you have a bullnose edge on these or is it just flat?
but one side of the 6' length has a 15" overhang (which should already have upport under it, as it's heavy tile right now, shouldn't it?) I have no problem putting in some additional cross-supports, if necessary - would they just be even with the top edge of the cabinet structures?
Does this help?
Dragon77
08-15-05, 11:54 AM
They're just flat edges right now (about a 2" verticle) - the Corian will have a small ogee edge.
The portion with the overhang that I was talking about [the bar] is somewhat like an island, with one (short) end against the wall. I would think that, since it's tiled right now, and tile is (I think) heavier than Corian, that the subplatform should already be there - or how else would it currently be supported?
--- Dragon77
The portion with the overhang that I was talking about [the bar] is somewhat like an island, with one (short) end against the wall. I would think that, since it's tiled right now, and tile is (I think) heavier than Corian, that the subplatform should already be there - or how else would it currently be supported?
--- Dragon77