Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - Help! My block foundation is giving me a headache!
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SuzyQ71
08-12-05, 07:47 AM
Hi,
Here is the situation....previous owners added an extension to the house and used blocks for the foundation. It has been there for over 7 years but there isn't a footing. :wall:
It's wet, and I got a backhoe in there and dug around this 36 foot wall - the blocks are not installed properly and it needs to be repointed and waterproofed....Being a damsel in distress, I have found a lot of companies that have given me estimates for the same job and have had a range of $2000 - $4000 for the waterproofing (repointing, tar, membrane and weeping tile).
My question is should I add a footing and if so, how do I do this?
Sue
Here is the situation....previous owners added an extension to the house and used blocks for the foundation. It has been there for over 7 years but there isn't a footing. :wall:
It's wet, and I got a backhoe in there and dug around this 36 foot wall - the blocks are not installed properly and it needs to be repointed and waterproofed....Being a damsel in distress, I have found a lot of companies that have given me estimates for the same job and have had a range of $2000 - $4000 for the waterproofing (repointing, tar, membrane and weeping tile).
My question is should I add a footing and if so, how do I do this?
Sue
marksr
08-12-05, 08:42 AM
Welcome to the forum
It is hard to believe that someone would build an addition with out a footer [but I have run across it before]. The whole weight of any structure rest on the footer. It is hard to imagine any mason would attempt to relay/point up any block that he knows has no footer - but that could explain differences in price. To pour a footer at this time is no easy task, something has to support the addition while the footer is being poured and foundation replaced. Be sure to address these issues with any contractor before you hire one. Wish you luck :)
It is hard to believe that someone would build an addition with out a footer [but I have run across it before]. The whole weight of any structure rest on the footer. It is hard to imagine any mason would attempt to relay/point up any block that he knows has no footer - but that could explain differences in price. To pour a footer at this time is no easy task, something has to support the addition while the footer is being poured and foundation replaced. Be sure to address these issues with any contractor before you hire one. Wish you luck :)
SuzyQ71
08-12-05, 08:52 AM
I know, there are a lot of people who want to save money by doing it themselves but do not inform themselves on the proper regulations...but this is NOW my problem! I think I will waterproof it and hope for the best, it's been up for over 7 years, knock on wood, it's still in place! Thank you for responding to me!
Concretemasonry
08-12-05, 02:10 PM
I would monitor the wall closely and do whatever possible to get rid of moisture in the soil. - I don't mean waterproofing (a band aid) - drain to a sump or something.
If you really are concerned, hire an engineer to see what you really have and not what you think you have. It is possible it may not be as bad as it appears, so an investigation could be worthwhile.
I have seen many walls built without concrete footings and are completely sound. They were built using a bond beam (block with horizontal steel reinforcement) for the first course and no concrete footing. Because a house does not weight much, this can be a sound design if the undisturbed soil is good or if a stone bed used as the footing.
You probably have a 8" , 10" or 12" thick block wall. Wood foundations were designed and built to sit on a 2x6 or 2x8 with a gravel base. The 8" wood foundation base is scarier then a reinforced block foundation system.
Good luck!
Dick
If you really are concerned, hire an engineer to see what you really have and not what you think you have. It is possible it may not be as bad as it appears, so an investigation could be worthwhile.
I have seen many walls built without concrete footings and are completely sound. They were built using a bond beam (block with horizontal steel reinforcement) for the first course and no concrete footing. Because a house does not weight much, this can be a sound design if the undisturbed soil is good or if a stone bed used as the footing.
You probably have a 8" , 10" or 12" thick block wall. Wood foundations were designed and built to sit on a 2x6 or 2x8 with a gravel base. The 8" wood foundation base is scarier then a reinforced block foundation system.
Good luck!
Dick