Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Help with laminate installation
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Help with laminate installation
smeadows
08-09-05, 01:25 PM
I am having a problem installing laminate. It is a medium quality Shaw product with Versalock.
Once a "corner" is created and the plank has to lock both on the end and on the side, we are having a problem with getting both to lock. Everytime the end locks, the side is not locked and vice versa.
The only solution I have found is using a block and hammer to force the space together. Is there a trick to this ?
Also, we were given T molding. This does go at the bottom of the doors ?
Is a molding track required or should it be attached to the subfloor ?
Any advice is very much appreciated
Once a "corner" is created and the plank has to lock both on the end and on the side, we are having a problem with getting both to lock. Everytime the end locks, the side is not locked and vice versa.
The only solution I have found is using a block and hammer to force the space together. Is there a trick to this ?
Also, we were given T molding. This does go at the bottom of the doors ?
Is a molding track required or should it be attached to the subfloor ?
Any advice is very much appreciated
em69
08-10-05, 04:25 AM
I'm not familiar with the locking system of Shaw, but the block and hammer is used for other manufacturers as well.
Regarding the T-moulding...there are different types.
The most important T-moulding is for expansion which usually is required every 30 feet in any direction. Check you instructions, or call your salesperson.
T-moulding is also installed at doorways...but a different type. For doorways, or transition points, you need to know what type of flooring material is on the other side. The T-moulding has different heights to compensate for this transition, i.e. concrete, carpet, tile.
YES, T-moulding should have a track (which the T-moulding snaps into) that is either glued or nailed to the floor so that it does NOT float with the rest of the floor.
Regarding the T-moulding...there are different types.
The most important T-moulding is for expansion which usually is required every 30 feet in any direction. Check you instructions, or call your salesperson.
T-moulding is also installed at doorways...but a different type. For doorways, or transition points, you need to know what type of flooring material is on the other side. The T-moulding has different heights to compensate for this transition, i.e. concrete, carpet, tile.
YES, T-moulding should have a track (which the T-moulding snaps into) that is either glued or nailed to the floor so that it does NOT float with the rest of the floor.
Carpets Done Wright
08-10-05, 11:14 AM
If it is a rotating lock like my specs for Shaw Perpetual, say it is. Don't be beating around on it.
Install it row by row, not how the weird instructions say to start your stagger before a row is complete. That hinders lifting the adjacent plank to get the length in.
After inserting the first plank in the next row, Use a wedge to hold that plank up at an angle. Insert the end joint and rotate it down. so the length edge is right where it is suppost to be to engage. Take a small 2x4 used as a taping block(I use my Kahr's block) with the plank still up at the angle, gently tap it down into the length joint. as it gets close slowly pull out your wedge. and continue gently taping until it seats tight.
Go down and place your wedge under the corner of the plank just installed, and repeat.
To maintain the floating characteristics of your floor, without a chance of locking it in with adhesives, always use the channel that is made for the transition moldings.
Install it row by row, not how the weird instructions say to start your stagger before a row is complete. That hinders lifting the adjacent plank to get the length in.
After inserting the first plank in the next row, Use a wedge to hold that plank up at an angle. Insert the end joint and rotate it down. so the length edge is right where it is suppost to be to engage. Take a small 2x4 used as a taping block(I use my Kahr's block) with the plank still up at the angle, gently tap it down into the length joint. as it gets close slowly pull out your wedge. and continue gently taping until it seats tight.
Go down and place your wedge under the corner of the plank just installed, and repeat.
To maintain the floating characteristics of your floor, without a chance of locking it in with adhesives, always use the channel that is made for the transition moldings.
smeadows
08-10-05, 11:52 AM
Thank you for the information. The information was very helpful, and the floor is starting to look great.
What about the doors leading outside ? We have 2 sets of french doors, one that leads down steps to the patio, and the other enters directly onto the deck.
Thank you
What about the doors leading outside ? We have 2 sets of french doors, one that leads down steps to the patio, and the other enters directly onto the deck.
Thank you
em69
08-11-05, 04:19 AM
1/4 round or shoe moulding along the edge of the door should cover the expansion gap.