Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - pine kitchen table questions
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jennyraye
08-09-05, 08:56 AM
I have had the pine kitchen table that I grew up with in my own home for a number of years. Approximately 7 years ago I stripped, sanded, and polyed this table. I used a number of coats of poly finish (minwax). The table needs to be done again, as the daily wear and tear of three kids, washing with simple green, etc., have taken the finish down to bare wood in a number of places. I do not know what the original finish was on this table. It was made in the Amish country, and I don't believe it had a poly finish on it. It had started to get that gummy sort of finish on it by the time I started using it--you know the kind you can scrape off with a fingernail. I'm unsure if I went the correct route by using poly last time. I've read that varnish may be a good alternative in this situation. Any thoughts? How many coats should I put on? Varnish available at places like Home Depot, Lowes? Would tung oil be an acceptable application? If so, how many coats of this? Thanks!
mako
08-09-05, 04:39 PM
My first guess as to the first coat would be linseed oil or a similar oil. Linseed can get gummy over time, especially on pine. It can also get gummy if it's done too heavily. It does look quite nice though.
Poly is about the best easily applied top, but there are other options. Check out the thread about finishing a cherry table in this same forum, some good info there.
If you can spray, get a gallon of conversion varnish (from paint stores like Lord and Evans or Sherwin Williams) but keep the kids long away, it's pretty noxious until cured. Or, perhaps your best bet, is the pour-on bartop resin. Both are two part catalyzed mixes, but the bartop stuff is thicker than pancake syrup and is poured on and allowed to flatten. One coat and you're done. I'd sand with a belt sander and remove all of the previous poly.
Poly is about the best easily applied top, but there are other options. Check out the thread about finishing a cherry table in this same forum, some good info there.
If you can spray, get a gallon of conversion varnish (from paint stores like Lord and Evans or Sherwin Williams) but keep the kids long away, it's pretty noxious until cured. Or, perhaps your best bet, is the pour-on bartop resin. Both are two part catalyzed mixes, but the bartop stuff is thicker than pancake syrup and is poured on and allowed to flatten. One coat and you're done. I'd sand with a belt sander and remove all of the previous poly.
marksr
08-10-05, 07:00 AM
If you refinish with something other than poly be sure to completely remove the poly - some polys and varnishes are not compatible. Varnish is usually available everywhere poly is. Poly dries harder than varnish will.
leewaytoo
08-12-05, 03:52 PM
you did not say as to the ages of your children and the expected continued abuse there from.
how about maybe just strip and sand to 220, then just wax the table
top and if you want to strip and sand the legs and skirt, wax them too.
the english tend to "bri-wax" their furniture.
and you can buy "bri-wax" or you can use johnson's paste wax.
people pay a lot of money for "beat up" solid pine furniture.
how about maybe just strip and sand to 220, then just wax the table
top and if you want to strip and sand the legs and skirt, wax them too.
the english tend to "bri-wax" their furniture.
and you can buy "bri-wax" or you can use johnson's paste wax.
people pay a lot of money for "beat up" solid pine furniture.