Blinds, Shades and Shutters - support at the middle
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cculon
08-08-05, 06:34 PM
I have a big arch window in the front of my house. Its wide is 71 inches. I would like to use a faux wood blind for the window. But because it is too big, and because it is an arch window, the frame is made by metal. I don't know how to install the supports at the middle section for the blind. Would you please show me how do it (i.e, to drill into the metal since I am afraid that it may make a leak), and where to buy those special support for the metal frame.
Thank you,
Thank you,
Annette
08-30-05, 02:30 PM
usually, blinds that are so wide that they require a center support COME WITH the support bracket. and directions for installation.
auburn
03-13-06, 02:55 PM
I have the exact same issue - the lack of center support is not the problem - it is the lack of anything to mount the center support to...
The window is similar to the arch window here: http://www.mdbarns.com/windows.html - only 71" wide.
The window is similar to the arch window here: http://www.mdbarns.com/windows.html - only 71" wide.
Randy E
03-13-06, 11:03 PM
You have no choice, you must install a center support for a faux that wide. In fact, there may be more than one sent with the blind.
This is how I have done these many, many times, from Michigan to Florida, and never once with a leak resulting.
( I am assuming this blind is going to be an INSIDE MOUNT)
First, mount the 2 end brackets into the sides of the window opening, at the height(length) ordered. This will need to be at the same height as the horizontal metal window frame that separates the arch from the lower window.
Before mounting the center bracket, do these things. Measure and mark the ordered height of the blind once again on the metal frame.
BUT WAIT, look at the blind, make sure that there is not a ladder/support string in the exact middle first! If so, then you will have to mount the bracket over to the left or right enough to clear this.
Now, hold the bracket up to this mark, and use a pencil to mark a couple of hole positions onto the metal frame to show you where to drill. Verify that these positions are not too close to the edge of this frame, because you dont want to hit the glass when drilling here. The closer to the center, the better.
If everything looks safe, then pre-drill into the metal on these marks, with a bit slightly smaller than the mounting screws. This metal is most often aluminum, and not terribly difficult to drill into.(NOTE-if possible, I try to substitute a much shorter screw for this bracket, usually 1/2"or 3/4" long) After drilling, slowly install the screws into the holes, and...
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! The metal is not very thick and if you strip the threads. you have to start over in a new spot.
After installing the new blind into the brackets, take a close look at the bottom of that center support bracket. You should see a small hole in the part that is supporting the blind's headrail, just visible above the top slat. I use another small screw through that hole and right into the headrail just to prevent the blind from ever drooping/popping out of the center support bracket when operating.
JUST FYI - Sometimes there is a wood trim molding inside the window opening that goes all the way around, and is right up against the actual metal window frame. If so, you may have to mount the side brackets just in front of this molding causing the blind to be slightly away from the metal window frame. Remember to add a block or spacer behind the center bracket to bring it out an equal amount here, so the blind will be fully supported.
This is how I have done these many, many times, from Michigan to Florida, and never once with a leak resulting.
( I am assuming this blind is going to be an INSIDE MOUNT)
First, mount the 2 end brackets into the sides of the window opening, at the height(length) ordered. This will need to be at the same height as the horizontal metal window frame that separates the arch from the lower window.
Before mounting the center bracket, do these things. Measure and mark the ordered height of the blind once again on the metal frame.
BUT WAIT, look at the blind, make sure that there is not a ladder/support string in the exact middle first! If so, then you will have to mount the bracket over to the left or right enough to clear this.
Now, hold the bracket up to this mark, and use a pencil to mark a couple of hole positions onto the metal frame to show you where to drill. Verify that these positions are not too close to the edge of this frame, because you dont want to hit the glass when drilling here. The closer to the center, the better.
If everything looks safe, then pre-drill into the metal on these marks, with a bit slightly smaller than the mounting screws. This metal is most often aluminum, and not terribly difficult to drill into.(NOTE-if possible, I try to substitute a much shorter screw for this bracket, usually 1/2"or 3/4" long) After drilling, slowly install the screws into the holes, and...
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! The metal is not very thick and if you strip the threads. you have to start over in a new spot.
After installing the new blind into the brackets, take a close look at the bottom of that center support bracket. You should see a small hole in the part that is supporting the blind's headrail, just visible above the top slat. I use another small screw through that hole and right into the headrail just to prevent the blind from ever drooping/popping out of the center support bracket when operating.
JUST FYI - Sometimes there is a wood trim molding inside the window opening that goes all the way around, and is right up against the actual metal window frame. If so, you may have to mount the side brackets just in front of this molding causing the blind to be slightly away from the metal window frame. Remember to add a block or spacer behind the center bracket to bring it out an equal amount here, so the blind will be fully supported.