Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Finishing a Cherry Table Top
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Jake M
08-07-05, 07:58 PM
I'm an amateur furniture maker and I'm in the process of creating a cherry dining room table - my largest project to date. I've only worked with basic stains and polyurethanes in the past. I'm wondering how I should finish it to best resist water stains, scratches, etc.? :confused:
George
08-08-05, 10:18 AM
Polyurethane is a good durable finish and relatively easy to apply. It should work well.
The only other finish I know of that's more durable is called either Rock Hard or Bar Top varnish.
It's the most durable I've found. You can find it at
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=4043&FamilyID=751
The only other finish I know of that's more durable is called either Rock Hard or Bar Top varnish.
It's the most durable I've found. You can find it at
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=4043&FamilyID=751
mako
08-08-05, 04:04 PM
Bar top varnish is awesome for sure. Note that you WILL NOT GET IT OFF once it cures, and it cures thick. I don't know of any chemical strippers available that will touch it, you can soak it in lacquer thinner, MEK, whatever, it'll laugh at you.
Another good product, if you have an air compressor and a good spray gun, is conversion varnish. Call around to local hardwood suppliers and paint suppliers like Lord and Evans. Conv. Varnish is also a 2 part catalyzed product that dries just like lacquer. Beware that it is more flammable than gasoline and you need to wear a respirator. Benefits, dries quickly (in less than 10 minutes), looks fantastic, is not a superthick coating, nearly impervious to chemicals (like bar top resins). You will need to sand with 220 grit between coats (the first coat will look terrible until you sand and recoat).
Cherry is a beautiful wood. If you want a fantastic deep, beautiful red color, try Minwax Sedona Red. If you were in SC I'd *give* you some, we have half a gallon of it not in use!
Matt
Another good product, if you have an air compressor and a good spray gun, is conversion varnish. Call around to local hardwood suppliers and paint suppliers like Lord and Evans. Conv. Varnish is also a 2 part catalyzed product that dries just like lacquer. Beware that it is more flammable than gasoline and you need to wear a respirator. Benefits, dries quickly (in less than 10 minutes), looks fantastic, is not a superthick coating, nearly impervious to chemicals (like bar top resins). You will need to sand with 220 grit between coats (the first coat will look terrible until you sand and recoat).
Cherry is a beautiful wood. If you want a fantastic deep, beautiful red color, try Minwax Sedona Red. If you were in SC I'd *give* you some, we have half a gallon of it not in use!
Matt
Jake M
08-08-05, 07:33 PM
Polyurethane is a good durable finish and relatively easy to apply. It should work well.
The only other finish I know of that's more durable is called either Rock Hard or Bar Top varnish.
It's the most durable I've found. You can find it at
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=4043&FamilyID=751
George,
Thanks for the info. The "Bar Top" varnish sounds interesting. I'll research it. Thanks again.
The only other finish I know of that's more durable is called either Rock Hard or Bar Top varnish.
It's the most durable I've found. You can find it at
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=4043&FamilyID=751
George,
Thanks for the info. The "Bar Top" varnish sounds interesting. I'll research it. Thanks again.
Jake M
08-08-05, 07:36 PM
Bar top varnish is awesome for sure. Note that you WILL NOT GET IT OFF once it cures, and it cures thick. I don't know of any chemical strippers available that will touch it, you can soak it in lacquer thinner, MEK, whatever, it'll laugh at you.
Another good product, if you have an air compressor and a good spray gun, is conversion varnish. Call around to local hardwood suppliers and paint suppliers like Lord and Evans. Conv. Varnish is also a 2 part catalyzed product that dries just like lacquer. Beware that it is more flammable than gasoline and you need to wear a respirator. Benefits, dries quickly (in less than 10 minutes), looks fantastic, is not a superthick coating, nearly impervious to chemicals (like bar top resins). You will need to sand with 220 grit between coats (the first coat will look terrible until you sand and recoat).
Cherry is a beautiful wood. If you want a fantastic deep, beautiful red color, try Minwax Sedona Red. If you were in SC I'd *give* you some, we have half a gallon of it not in use!
Matt
Matt,
Thanks for the great info. I really appreciate it.
Another good product, if you have an air compressor and a good spray gun, is conversion varnish. Call around to local hardwood suppliers and paint suppliers like Lord and Evans. Conv. Varnish is also a 2 part catalyzed product that dries just like lacquer. Beware that it is more flammable than gasoline and you need to wear a respirator. Benefits, dries quickly (in less than 10 minutes), looks fantastic, is not a superthick coating, nearly impervious to chemicals (like bar top resins). You will need to sand with 220 grit between coats (the first coat will look terrible until you sand and recoat).
Cherry is a beautiful wood. If you want a fantastic deep, beautiful red color, try Minwax Sedona Red. If you were in SC I'd *give* you some, we have half a gallon of it not in use!
Matt
Matt,
Thanks for the great info. I really appreciate it.