PhilC
08-04-05, 02:03 PM
I apologize for any spelling errors, emotion behind post has me steaming so sorry in advance.
I am hoping for some advice regarding an addition-extended dormer) that was added to a very close friend of mine's home, by a "friend" that has the 'looks good from where I live motto.
My background is in construction, my father is a G.C., in Florida, I too am licensed, so helping this person whose home was built in 1953 in Maryland has raised some curiously new Questions for me.
To start with his friend added a full extended dormer to an old cape cod adding god knows how much dead weight without so much as adding a single collar tie to the rafters. This is a joist and rafter simple roof, althought there is NO Ridge Beam :confused: Don't ask me.
Anyway he simple tied new 2X6 rafters to the existing roof, built a header for the new partition walls (which places the load bearing of these new rooms 6 ft away from the support walls, i.e. no true support.
The new pitch is 4/12 vs the original 8/12 which in a cold climate is for sure going to add an immense amount of snow weight to the new roof (which by the way he reshingled over existing using new install nails and not extended ones, )not to mention all the normal live weight.
Also He simply ran a 2x4 along the new gable with only 2 vertical riser 2x4 and no other vertical support from old roof 2 new OR from attic joists to old rafters on gable ends (to support new dead weight)
What I'm looking for is anyone with some knowledge on older, pre-1960 homes and how best to properly strengthen the new addition.
What I have planned thus is:
add Ridge beam (Just butted rafters now :confused: ) with no ties just 2 10d nails and sagging up to 3/4 at butt joints (coincidently the worse sheer pull at both ends of new roof tie in.....HMMMMM)
New headers and gable support for new roof addition to existing attic joists and exterior walls.
Collar ties (although I am questioning distance from ridge to place these)
Where my concern lies is in placing now load bearing walls 6ft in from exterior onto already weakly supported joists and how best to address this issue.
I took plenty of digital pics of the utterly disgusting things this guy did while "helping his friend" and would be happy to provide these to anyone to get a better understanding of what I am trying to describe.
I have a ton of building material (high end plumbing, lighting, and computer routers and wireless cards) that I would be willing to barter with should I find someone willing to take a look at these pics and help me correct these issues while I am able before any disasters happen.
BTW the reason I started helping is because I do high end remodeling and was ready to finish the interiors of both rooms, but when I saw the $900 jacuzzi tub that I got at cost for my buddy was installed with incorrect support beams and no mortar base AND no re-inforced floor joists AND no vapor barrier of any kind, just green board nailed to wall.... I decided to take a step back and say HMMMMMMMMMMMM.
The work I am doing for this friend would be valued well over $25,000, including new electrical (adding grounded and doing away with less than competent wiring-- 1 junction box has 28 wires jammed into it!! :eek: . 1 15 amp non grounded circuit currently provides power to the two existing 2cd floor bedroom (3 ceiling fans, 8 recp., 2 closet lights. And all with evidence of arc-faulting.
I don't want to do my finishing work until this roof issue is resolved, this friend is a great guy who gets up at 2:30am every morning for work and has ALWAYS been there to help any who ask which is why I'm donating my expenses to give his family the upgrades they deserve,,,so any help is appreciated and any links to helpful sources would also be welcome.
Again, if anyone would like to see the video or pics just let me know and I will either send them or post them to a home page, you can all have a good laugh and add the pics to the "who not to hire and why Library"
I am hoping for some advice regarding an addition-extended dormer) that was added to a very close friend of mine's home, by a "friend" that has the 'looks good from where I live motto.
My background is in construction, my father is a G.C., in Florida, I too am licensed, so helping this person whose home was built in 1953 in Maryland has raised some curiously new Questions for me.
To start with his friend added a full extended dormer to an old cape cod adding god knows how much dead weight without so much as adding a single collar tie to the rafters. This is a joist and rafter simple roof, althought there is NO Ridge Beam :confused: Don't ask me.
Anyway he simple tied new 2X6 rafters to the existing roof, built a header for the new partition walls (which places the load bearing of these new rooms 6 ft away from the support walls, i.e. no true support.
The new pitch is 4/12 vs the original 8/12 which in a cold climate is for sure going to add an immense amount of snow weight to the new roof (which by the way he reshingled over existing using new install nails and not extended ones, )not to mention all the normal live weight.
Also He simply ran a 2x4 along the new gable with only 2 vertical riser 2x4 and no other vertical support from old roof 2 new OR from attic joists to old rafters on gable ends (to support new dead weight)
What I'm looking for is anyone with some knowledge on older, pre-1960 homes and how best to properly strengthen the new addition.
What I have planned thus is:
add Ridge beam (Just butted rafters now :confused: ) with no ties just 2 10d nails and sagging up to 3/4 at butt joints (coincidently the worse sheer pull at both ends of new roof tie in.....HMMMMM)
New headers and gable support for new roof addition to existing attic joists and exterior walls.
Collar ties (although I am questioning distance from ridge to place these)
Where my concern lies is in placing now load bearing walls 6ft in from exterior onto already weakly supported joists and how best to address this issue.
I took plenty of digital pics of the utterly disgusting things this guy did while "helping his friend" and would be happy to provide these to anyone to get a better understanding of what I am trying to describe.
I have a ton of building material (high end plumbing, lighting, and computer routers and wireless cards) that I would be willing to barter with should I find someone willing to take a look at these pics and help me correct these issues while I am able before any disasters happen.
BTW the reason I started helping is because I do high end remodeling and was ready to finish the interiors of both rooms, but when I saw the $900 jacuzzi tub that I got at cost for my buddy was installed with incorrect support beams and no mortar base AND no re-inforced floor joists AND no vapor barrier of any kind, just green board nailed to wall.... I decided to take a step back and say HMMMMMMMMMMMM.
The work I am doing for this friend would be valued well over $25,000, including new electrical (adding grounded and doing away with less than competent wiring-- 1 junction box has 28 wires jammed into it!! :eek: . 1 15 amp non grounded circuit currently provides power to the two existing 2cd floor bedroom (3 ceiling fans, 8 recp., 2 closet lights. And all with evidence of arc-faulting.
I don't want to do my finishing work until this roof issue is resolved, this friend is a great guy who gets up at 2:30am every morning for work and has ALWAYS been there to help any who ask which is why I'm donating my expenses to give his family the upgrades they deserve,,,so any help is appreciated and any links to helpful sources would also be welcome.
Again, if anyone would like to see the video or pics just let me know and I will either send them or post them to a home page, you can all have a good laugh and add the pics to the "who not to hire and why Library"