No hot water in the mornings

[ericreid]

I didn't see anyone else with a problem similar to mine, so I thought I would ask.

Our ~5 year old gas water heater doesn't seem to keep the water hot overnight. When I get up in the morning, the hot water is only lukewarm. A little while after my shower, the water is at a good temperature, and will stay that way throughout the day, as long as it is used every few hours.

For example, if I feel like taking a bath in the morning, I'll fill it up with lukewarm water, and ten minutes later drain the tub and fill it back up with now hot water.

It's not a major problem, but it is a little annoying. Any suggestions?

Eric

[Ejbogusch]

It sounds like a problem with the thermostat. Try drawing some water off into a bucket from the hose valve at the bottom of the heater. Measure the temp of the water. This should tell you if the thermostat has been satisfied on temp or failing to come back on when the water is cold.

[PhilC]

Variables:
Gas or Electric?
If electric then there are 2 other variables:
Thermostat or anode?

Have you ever drained your heater?
Are you on well or city water?
Where is WH located?


More than likely either the high thermostat or anode went caput. Sediment can destroy an anode if an unfiltered water line is your supply.

I have seen sediment up to 5-6" ABOVE the lower anode (heating element) although much less will cause failure cold water at first turn on usually points to a malfunctioning lower Therm. or Anode.

Turn the temp on the higher anode up and pay attention to what happens in the morning. More than likely the lower anode is bad (easy fix) but need some more details when you get a chance.

To elaborate on the other post, if you turn on a faucet and get luke warm or cold water then it's the top heating element (assuming you have 2) If you get hot then it turns lukewarm the lower.

In your case for about $13-20 you can replace both thermostat and anode.

You will need to determine:
1)type of thermostst-- Robertshaw http://www.users.bigpond.com/jackier2358/images/robertshaw.gif
just an example
or Therm-o-Disc
http://images.acmehardware.com/200x200/5127840.jpg

2)# of elements (anodes) and thier wattage rating
3)Voltage of unit (most likely 240)

All this info should be on the Heaters rating plate although you may have to remove the cover over the thermostat/anode.

To replace:
Shut off breaker
Shut supply water line and connect drain hose to available drain line
Open a hot water faucet and then open the drain valve on the water heater.

If you have never drained the WH go ahead and drain it dry, just remember that it must be completely full before turning power back on.

Take note of wireing, and since my personal opinion is that you have a bad anode (heating element) Disconnect the two leads (their location is no matter) on the anode. If you have a large socket use it to unscrew the anode or you can buy the tool for under $5 at most hardware stores, and replace. Do not overtighten. Reconnect the two wires (likely brwn or yellow and blue) and refill tank until water is coming out of open faucet.

More than likely you have a non-simultaneous wired heater which is why I doubt thermostat failure, but as I said they are sold in kits fairly cheaply.

So as long as you note wiring, why not replace both.

Keep us posted

[majakdragon]

jst4advice, You could have saved a lot of typing. The heater is GAS.

[PhilC]

"jst4advice, You could have saved a lot of typing. The heater is GAS"

:D You can tell it was very late at night as I overlooked that one key word in the post. Oh well, maybe the info will be helpful to someone. :p

Thanks for pointing out my blunder majakdragon, I will be sure to not post replies after 2:00am from now on :D