Flooring Tile - radiant heat
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11-01-00, 08:25 AM
I am installing tile over my new hydronic radiant heat floor (Gypcrete). I am concerned about running the heating system while the thinset cures. It is getting cold these evenings, so I do need the heat. But how long should I wait to run the radiant floor heat after setting the tile?
11-01-00, 05:11 PM
Jeff:
I have done several of these (usually over wood and backer board) Keep the heat off while setting the tile. Now here comes the deviation from the norm (so to speak). Instead of grouting the next day. simply take a sponge or a squeeze bottle full of water and wet the floor so that it runs under the tile a little and dampens the thin-set. (keep in mind you don't want to soak it and leave standing water. just kind of drizzle it in the joints. let that go (without grouting) untill the following day.(be nice to it, ungrouted tile is delicate stuff the edges are really prone to chipping.)Ok so far we have set the tile one day let it stand over night, then wet the thinset down and let that stand over night. Then grout as normal (still with the radiant off.) Then every day for a week, wet all the grout joints (again just damp no standing water) This is called damp or wet curing and it makes any portland cement based product harder.(ever seen them build a bridge on the interstate they keep burlap and sprinklers on it sometimes weeks at a time.) same principal. After you grout and let it stand over night you can turn the heat on low low low (just remember to wet that grout down at least once per day.Twice a day would be better)avoid cranking the heat in there (on high) for at least two weeks. Actually once the gypcrete and tile start to warm up you should not have to crank up the heat on high anyway. Something else to remember, during the 30 day "break in " period keep the heat semi- constant. Don't turn it off at night and then turn it up way high in the morning. Keep it at 65-70 all the time during that 30 days and you should be fine. Also use a good quality polymer fortified thin-set Don't let anyone tell you you don't need it over gypcrete, because of the heat in the floor you do.
Good luck and if you have any other questions let me know.
Rich Gately (tileman1)
www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com (http://www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com)
[This message has been edited by tileman1 (edited November 01, 2000).]
I have done several of these (usually over wood and backer board) Keep the heat off while setting the tile. Now here comes the deviation from the norm (so to speak). Instead of grouting the next day. simply take a sponge or a squeeze bottle full of water and wet the floor so that it runs under the tile a little and dampens the thin-set. (keep in mind you don't want to soak it and leave standing water. just kind of drizzle it in the joints. let that go (without grouting) untill the following day.(be nice to it, ungrouted tile is delicate stuff the edges are really prone to chipping.)Ok so far we have set the tile one day let it stand over night, then wet the thinset down and let that stand over night. Then grout as normal (still with the radiant off.) Then every day for a week, wet all the grout joints (again just damp no standing water) This is called damp or wet curing and it makes any portland cement based product harder.(ever seen them build a bridge on the interstate they keep burlap and sprinklers on it sometimes weeks at a time.) same principal. After you grout and let it stand over night you can turn the heat on low low low (just remember to wet that grout down at least once per day.Twice a day would be better)avoid cranking the heat in there (on high) for at least two weeks. Actually once the gypcrete and tile start to warm up you should not have to crank up the heat on high anyway. Something else to remember, during the 30 day "break in " period keep the heat semi- constant. Don't turn it off at night and then turn it up way high in the morning. Keep it at 65-70 all the time during that 30 days and you should be fine. Also use a good quality polymer fortified thin-set Don't let anyone tell you you don't need it over gypcrete, because of the heat in the floor you do.
Good luck and if you have any other questions let me know.
Rich Gately (tileman1)
www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com (http://www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com)
[This message has been edited by tileman1 (edited November 01, 2000).]
11-02-00, 09:10 AM
Thanks for the reply TM. Right now, I'm not grouting. Since I have 800 square feet of floor space to cover (and I have a job), it is taking me some weeks to get the project done. I have 100 sq ft laid (ungrouted), and I have been using my radiant heat in the evenings. The heat is off while I am working on the floor, but I've been turning it on once the thinset is firmed up. Seems like that might be a bad idea, so I'm going to have to adjust my procedure. I suppose that I should keep the heat off completely until I've grouted?
11-04-00, 07:04 AM
Jeff;
You can adjust a little that is no problem.
Since you have such a big job ahead of you I would recommend that you do it in stages.As for the 100 ft you have laid already, grout it up. (just remember to wet it each day)The reason I say this is that it is very delicate. Your better off grouting it than leaving it exposed.One thing I want to tell you about grouting in stages is this and its real important. Measure the EXACT amount of water you use in each batch of grout. In other words don't make it thin and runny one time and thick the next, otherwise you may get a color variation (one batch may be just a little darker or lighter than another) You should mix it up about the consistency of soft peanut butter. If you look on the back of the bag it will tell you about how much water to use per bag. Follow the directions exactly and you should have no problems. There should also be a chart that tells you how many square ft. per pound to use for the size of tile and the size of the grout joint that you are using. (ie.- you sure don't want to mix a whole bag of grout to grout 4 tiles) Just make sure that you mix your grout to the same consistency each time and you will be ok. NEVER add water to grout. If it starts to set up or get thicker in the bucket,after you let it stand (slake) and re-mix it like the directions say, your better off throwing it away and starting with a new mix.
If there is no traffic on this area then you may get away with not grouting it, but your taking your chances with it.
As for the heat you don't want it on while your setting or grouting. The grout will set up so fast that you may not get it off without scrubbing it and this will consequently wash the joints out. or the thin-set will "skin over" on you and not provide a proper bond so NO HEAT while doing the work. And I would let the gypcrete cool a little before doing anything as well. Maybe you can find some alternate heat source for now like portable electric heaters or something like that. Its ok to make the air in the room warm as long as the gypcrete is not hot. Well Good luck and sorry for the long winded replies. I just want you to have a great job with no problems.If you have any other questions, I'll be here!
Rich Gately (Tileman1)
www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com (http://www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com)
You can adjust a little that is no problem.
Since you have such a big job ahead of you I would recommend that you do it in stages.As for the 100 ft you have laid already, grout it up. (just remember to wet it each day)The reason I say this is that it is very delicate. Your better off grouting it than leaving it exposed.One thing I want to tell you about grouting in stages is this and its real important. Measure the EXACT amount of water you use in each batch of grout. In other words don't make it thin and runny one time and thick the next, otherwise you may get a color variation (one batch may be just a little darker or lighter than another) You should mix it up about the consistency of soft peanut butter. If you look on the back of the bag it will tell you about how much water to use per bag. Follow the directions exactly and you should have no problems. There should also be a chart that tells you how many square ft. per pound to use for the size of tile and the size of the grout joint that you are using. (ie.- you sure don't want to mix a whole bag of grout to grout 4 tiles) Just make sure that you mix your grout to the same consistency each time and you will be ok. NEVER add water to grout. If it starts to set up or get thicker in the bucket,after you let it stand (slake) and re-mix it like the directions say, your better off throwing it away and starting with a new mix.
If there is no traffic on this area then you may get away with not grouting it, but your taking your chances with it.
As for the heat you don't want it on while your setting or grouting. The grout will set up so fast that you may not get it off without scrubbing it and this will consequently wash the joints out. or the thin-set will "skin over" on you and not provide a proper bond so NO HEAT while doing the work. And I would let the gypcrete cool a little before doing anything as well. Maybe you can find some alternate heat source for now like portable electric heaters or something like that. Its ok to make the air in the room warm as long as the gypcrete is not hot. Well Good luck and sorry for the long winded replies. I just want you to have a great job with no problems.If you have any other questions, I'll be here!
Rich Gately (Tileman1)
www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com (http://www.gatelytilecompany.homestead.com)
11-06-00, 09:17 AM
Thanks again, Tileman. You've provided me with some great advice.