Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - How do I make an exsisting concrete slab thicker?
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we're all bobs
08-01-05, 11:32 AM
I have enclosed a patio for additional space in my home. The room is aproximately 100 sq. ft. and every thing is drywalled. The floor of this room is 4" below the room adjoining it and I want to make them the same height. What do I need to do to the exsisting concrete before pouring more concrete on top of it?
brotherdon
08-01-05, 04:39 PM
I have a similar situation. If you don't mind, please forward your response to me so I too can get some help. My patio if a little larger, about 17 x 21 and I also have issues with the roofs above but I surely need to get the foundation right before I work upward. Thanks, Don
BobF
08-01-05, 06:36 PM
Is this now a regular room or is it just screened in?
If its a regular room and not subject to the forces of mother nature, I'd use 2x4s and plywood to build a wood floor.
If its a regular room and not subject to the forces of mother nature, I'd use 2x4s and plywood to build a wood floor.
brotherdon
08-01-05, 08:12 PM
I've seen floors built up like that before. For some reason, I thought I needed to put concrete there. Is there any downside to doing that??
To answer your question about the flooring. My patio was screened in. There is a light slope toward the west end of the slab. I would have to do something to level it up. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Don
To answer your question about the flooring. My patio was screened in. There is a light slope toward the west end of the slab. I would have to do something to level it up. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Don
Mnuvsteel
08-18-05, 08:50 AM
I have enclosed a patio for additional space in my home. The room is aproximately 100 sq. ft. and every thing is drywalled. The floor of this room is 4" below the room adjoining it and I want to make them the same height. What do I need to do to the exsisting concrete before pouring more concrete on top of it?
Hi . Well first thing I would dois check the local building codes and see if it is ok to have less than 8 feet of head room from floor to ceiling. If its 8 feet now, it will only be 7 feet 8 inches when you are done. Another issue is in bringing up the elevation of the floor you also will be lowering if you will, the things like electrical recepticals and switches and the like. It doesn't seem like that big of a deal - only 4 inches. But it sounds like it may be attatched to the house which makes it part of the house which if isn't done to code and something like a fire happens, well lets just say you can make a claim on the homeowners insurance .... But if it ain't done to code they aint gonna pay.
Assuming you went to the local building inspection office and got your permit and had the engineering Dept. take a gander at it and you got the thumbs up to proceed; I would cut away the drywall about six inches up from the bottom of the wall. Then get some sort of waterproof moisture barrier to protect the bottom wall plate and bottoms of the studs. And oh before you do that it might be a good idea to look at all of the bottom wall plate and maybe add more anchors to the foundation because 100 square ft. 4 inches thick is about 1and 1/4 yards of cement that will undoubtedly add extra and unusual outward force on the bottom of the walls untill it cures. Anyway add anchors, put moisture barrier, put a solid and continuous 4 inch wide strip of pine or stronger would be plywood strips around the entire perimeter of the room.
Then get some masonry blades. Afew of them 10 or 12 unless you get the ones made of steel with diamond then you only need the one. anyway put that on the (oops) ahem ...on the circular saw and score the floor don't have to go deep but the entire floor should be scored criss crossed or anything really. then get out the vaccuum and make sure there is no dust or dirt grease wax etc. Then you add concrete glue and water mixture. Brush it on everywhere and pour your slab useing rebar or mesh for reinforcement and put the desired finish on it and let it dry. Or if you really wanna make scratch their heads you can cut short pieces of rebar and drill holes everywhere and epoxy the rebar stubs in the holes. Then tie your remaining long bars to the little studs poking up everywhere and pour over the top of that.
Anyways allof that seems like alot of work anyway you do it. Why not just pour a ramp and get the whole room recarpeted. you could even make it a fancy design so it looks real cool. Good Luck
And may the God of your choosing bless you
Hi . Well first thing I would dois check the local building codes and see if it is ok to have less than 8 feet of head room from floor to ceiling. If its 8 feet now, it will only be 7 feet 8 inches when you are done. Another issue is in bringing up the elevation of the floor you also will be lowering if you will, the things like electrical recepticals and switches and the like. It doesn't seem like that big of a deal - only 4 inches. But it sounds like it may be attatched to the house which makes it part of the house which if isn't done to code and something like a fire happens, well lets just say you can make a claim on the homeowners insurance .... But if it ain't done to code they aint gonna pay.
Assuming you went to the local building inspection office and got your permit and had the engineering Dept. take a gander at it and you got the thumbs up to proceed; I would cut away the drywall about six inches up from the bottom of the wall. Then get some sort of waterproof moisture barrier to protect the bottom wall plate and bottoms of the studs. And oh before you do that it might be a good idea to look at all of the bottom wall plate and maybe add more anchors to the foundation because 100 square ft. 4 inches thick is about 1and 1/4 yards of cement that will undoubtedly add extra and unusual outward force on the bottom of the walls untill it cures. Anyway add anchors, put moisture barrier, put a solid and continuous 4 inch wide strip of pine or stronger would be plywood strips around the entire perimeter of the room.
Then get some masonry blades. Afew of them 10 or 12 unless you get the ones made of steel with diamond then you only need the one. anyway put that on the (oops) ahem ...on the circular saw and score the floor don't have to go deep but the entire floor should be scored criss crossed or anything really. then get out the vaccuum and make sure there is no dust or dirt grease wax etc. Then you add concrete glue and water mixture. Brush it on everywhere and pour your slab useing rebar or mesh for reinforcement and put the desired finish on it and let it dry. Or if you really wanna make scratch their heads you can cut short pieces of rebar and drill holes everywhere and epoxy the rebar stubs in the holes. Then tie your remaining long bars to the little studs poking up everywhere and pour over the top of that.
Anyways allof that seems like alot of work anyway you do it. Why not just pour a ramp and get the whole room recarpeted. you could even make it a fancy design so it looks real cool. Good Luck
And may the God of your choosing bless you
brotherdon
08-18-05, 03:50 PM
Thanks for the information. For some reason, the whole thing doesn't seem to be falling into place at this time. I may need to do a little more waiting and looking and gathering information. I don't want to get that involved. Thanks a bunch. Don