Carpentry and Woodworking - Wet bar Plans

I went throught the "STicky" post at the top of the page and still didnt find what I was looking for. I would like to build an l shape wet bar and was wondering what type of would is best to use ans how do i get the edges of the wood attached without seeing the screwor do I even use screws, Please help Thank You.

There are many preferences for different types of wood and the effect they have on the overall appearance of the complete project. Commonly, tightly grained woods such as maple or mahogany are used. The wood edging is usually attached with glue. Methods such as dowels, biscuits, or tongue and groove are used to align the edging and provide more glue surface. These also allow for no visible fasteners.

Hope this helps.

Yes, there are lots of woods and ways that you can do this. Personally I'd use a good grade, such as "shop" grade veneered plywood. I'm guessing you want a stain or clearcote and not a paint. The world is your oyster in wood choices, as maple and mahogany have been mentioned. Cherry is popular, as is Iroko (very allergenic). Personally, though, my vote will go to Walnut. This wood is the nicest, very dark, tight grain, smooth sanding. Just expensive and kinda allergenic (not the plywood since only the surface is walnut veneer). If you're not experienced in staining and just have to have a stained (ie, not natural color) finish, avoid maple and cherry, they tend to blotch up when not caressed and snuggled and sweet talked.

In our shop we use pocket holes and screws to attach "finished ends" where assembly screws would otherwise be visible. You can get all you need to do this at Lowes, just look for a Kreg Pocket Hole system, about $100. I shoot a pocket screw every foot or so and use Titebond II wood glue as well.

Pocket holes and screws are regularly used in my shop for a solid and concealed joinery method for bookcases, cabinets, and in your case, a bar.

There is a cheaper alternative to the Kreg pocket hole system from Penn State Industries. Here's a link to it...

http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KRJ

I bought one three years ago, and it has never failed me, and I use it every day.

As Mako stated, wood comes in many species, it's all a matter of what kind of look you want. Some woods have a more pronounced grain pattern than others.

My bar starts at the wall and comes out long ways 6 ft and the end is rounded. The bar also seperates my kitchen and and a small game room or whatever I decide it's going to be. Then above the bar I put what I will call a ferdown that sort of incases the whole idea and makes it come together. All this and the bar are wraped with T/G CEDAR and my bar top is done in all penneys. heads up on all of them of course. People flip out when they see it. I do admit it is really shap.

I'd like to see a pic of that bar top, sounds pretty nice. It's a shame our economy wasn't a lil better or you might have been able to use nickels. :p

Here is a bar I made http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/creativecustom@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=3adc&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

The wine cellar holds 2,600 bottles of wine and believe it or not, they filled it!

Notice the Keg-o-rator too.