Anyone ever change their own culligan water softener resin?

[luckydriver]

I have an 15+ yr old culligan 23. They fixed the valve body a few years ago and while doing so, the guy showed me that my resin was 'slush' and indicated it is normally in marble form and it's time for a change soon. So since the softener is now not softening quite right, I'm figuring now's the perfect time to change the resin since it's been a few more years. Even right after a recharge the water isn't as soft as it should be and sometimes it seems like it's not soft at all.

My recollection is it's a simple matter to take off the valve body to get to the resin. They quoted me 125 labor and 125 for 3/4 cu ft resin and 8 bucks for 15lbs of gravel. I am sure the guy years ago told me it's a do it yourself job and even the lady on the phone didn't say it isn't, but rather said, "there's no guarantee if you fix it yourself." Well I'm pretty sure i can do this but was wondering if anyone else has experience in this area.

then there's the lingering notion in my head that while I definitely do need resin, is that really why it's not softening? So any other ideas would be nice to hear. thx

[captwally]

As long as the valve is working properly, the age of your softener probably agrees with changing out the old resin for new. Here are some tips that go for any model, not just yours. The prices you mentioned do not seem out of line. Resin prices are like pork bellies, they fluctuate with the market.

Once you obtain your new resin, get ready for a fun filled and exciting day! Byp*** the softener and disconnect it, leaving the water system active to the house if you can. If not, at least cut the water to the house and leave it pressurized at the pump, because you are going to need a hose. You will also need a helper, a sawhorse or workbench, a 5 gallon bucket or preferably larger receptacle, and a 12 pack of beer.

The valve body should spin right off the tank, though it may take some effort. Be careful not to break it. The unit is heavy as it is full of resin and water. Tip the unit over and drain as much water off as you can before resin starts to pour out. (into your bucket.) At this point, you should be able to remove the distributor, which is the long tube going down the center of the tank. Then you need to heft the whole thing so the bottom is resting on a sawhorse, and the top where the hole is located is resting on something slightly lower than the bottom, with the bucket placed to catch what comes out. You can take the hose and use the water flow to flush out the entire contents. Once done the tank will be empty and light. You now can refill it with the new resin. Generally gravel is not necessary if the distributor has good fine slots, but if you use gravel, place the distributor in first, cover it so media doesn't enter the tube, and fill the tank to a depth of about 8". Then fill with the recommended amount of resin. There is a special funnel used for this, but if you are creative, you'll figure something out. If you just add resin, you can install the distributor after it's full by flushing water down the center as you push it down. Attach the distributor tube to the valve head, spin it back on, reconnect it and plug the unit back in. You should be in business!

[luckydriver]

honestly..did you write that to scare me into paying the 125 or just to be informative? ;) it does seem easy (just like my sand pool filter) but I know how much that thing weighs and it's not fun to do.

[captwally]

LOL!!! Heh heh, no I had no intentions of scaring you. That's why I said you'd need a helper and a 12 pack (Please take no offense if you don't drink.)

It's not an easy job, but it is not out of the realm of the DIYer. But if all functions of your water softener are working, in all honesty, the resin is probably ready for replacement. You may try a quality resin cleaner, but it's difficult to tell you that without knowing the hardness and Iron content of your water. It may only be a short term answer, however. That's why I gave you the long version.