Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Yet Another Deck Treatment Question

Hi,

I'm new and have read through all the threads concerning treating decks. after reading about the different products and some if the issues that can arise I have a few questions I'd like to see if you guys can answer for me...

I'm located in North Central Texas just north of HELL and it gets very hot here in the summers. My front porch is built as a deck and is made from Redwood. It's about 12 years old. The porch is covered with a roof, but it does get the direct afternoon sun. I don't believe that it has ever been treated with anything as it has turned dark grey/black (as Redwood does). At this point everything has been sanded to almost "new" wood and all the vertical surfaces have been taken care of. My main concern right now is the floor.

Here's the tough stuff... I know how to apply the treatments, but what I want to know is what happens on the other side of the equation?

If I treat the floor with a good high quality (oil) stain or sealer will I have to completely remove it in 3-4 years when it's time to re-treat it?

If I use a semi-transparent stain can I just re-apply it over the top of it?

The deck does not look like "new" Redwood (but it does look nice), and I'd like to give a nice warm honey feeling to it. Is there anything you might recommend to achieve this?

Is this something I really want to consider or is there a better option that I haven't thought of yet?

Cost is not an obstacle as it will only take about 1 gallon to cover the entire floor.

Thanks in advance...

Mikeydude :)

Most stains can be recoated after they have weathered. I would consider using SWP's deckscapes. I prefer the waterborne - dries quick,easy clean up and low odor. I think it retails for $20-$25 a gal.

"If I use a semi-transparent stain can I just re-apply it over the top of it?"

That is the key. No matter what you choose make sure of this, it is the biggest headache of all. Keep in mind that the lighter the color the shorter the life expectancy. Honey type colors are just one step up from no color and will need to be recoated more often.

Deckscapes, Sikkens, and Cabot are all good. I like Sikkens ,but that's just my preference. Cabot has a new product this year. Why don't you try it and see if it is any good. SPF cleaner and the finish.As long as it doesn't have to be removed before recoating it looks good.

http://www.cabotstain.com/towoca_htm/prosel_body.cfm?type=ext&cabot=1

I've done some research on some of the stuff out there and Consumer Reports recommends Wolman DuraStain as best for semi-transparent stains. It has a 3 year guarentee (as do most of the biggies these days) and supposedly can be retreated without removal. Any thoughts on this brand? The only drawback I can see to this is it's water-based. Is this an issue?


For color I was thinking of going with either the Red Cedar or Redwood tinting.

I'm trying to find some Cabots dealers in the area to get some info on that product too. I think I want to go with a semi-transparent oil base.

The stuff sounds good, but I wonder if you can get the honey look you are after.Like I said before the darker the color the longer the product lasts. Also remember that con reports says behr paint is better than benjamin Moore in most respects.

What was the Durastain tested against=names?

It said Cabots solid color was the best...

The Cabot Decking Stain 1480, was by far, the top rated deck treatment.

This is the solid Redwood color. I don't recall what the testing included... sorry.

I'm trying to find some Cabots info in my area right now.

And I would replace the deck with a vinyl (Pro Cell) or a composite (Weather Best or similar) and NEVER have to worry about sealing, staining, sanding, etc. again.

Where's the fun in that? Jeez... what would life be like without having to deal with sanding, power-washing, staining, sweating, splinters, bruised knees, sweating, breathing in dust and fumes, sweating, stained hands, paint thinner, cleaning brushes, cutting in trim and sweating?

:wall:

Mikeydude,

Some folks are just gluttions for punishment.

I've heard the Texas sun and heat are murder on composite woods. Are these new composites any better? Before I spend any $$ on them, I'd want to see several that are more than a few years old.

Hello:

I've the same question you do but also have an answer.

I work for a DIY building materials supplier and we carry several brands of composite decking.

All are guaranteed for a minimum of 15 years against warping, rotting cracking etc.

Not one mention is made of fading by any of the manufacturers.

So here's what I've noticed personally:

We've had a few boken pieces of composite from several manufacturers sitting outside with the rest in case a customer wants a short piece.
All have been sitting in the sun in Upstate NY since early June--and all have faded noticeably if compared to the new product we get in weekly.

The light gray colors seem to fade the least, but the darker colors faded quite a bit more.

Manufacturers were generally Everex and one other I forget the name of but fading seemed similar across the board for the medium to darker colors.

While my experience is hardly a scientific study, it's clear to me that composite decking--like vinyl siding--will fade from exposure to UV rays.

My experience with vinyl siding tells me that the more you spend the more resistant it is to fading--but after 15 or 20 years it all fades.

I suspect composite is similar in that respect.

Trex admits their product will fade in the first three months but they do not offer detail on longevity regarding fade:

http://www.trex.com/Universal/product_info/workingwithtrex/weathering.asp

Good Luck and hope my post was of some help.

"If I use a semi-transparent stain can I just re-apply it over the top of it?"

That is the key. No matter what you choose make sure of this, it is the biggest headache of all. Keep in mind that the lighter the color the shorter the life expectancy. Honey type colors are just one step up from no color and will need to be recoated more often.

Deckscapes, Sikkens, and Cabot are all good. I like Sikkens ,but that's just my preference. Cabot has a new product this year. Why don't you try it and see if it is any good. SPF cleaner and the finish.As long as it doesn't have to be removed before recoating it looks good.

http://www.cabotstain.com/towoca_htm/prosel_body.cfm?type=ext&cabot=1

Your advice to use a stain that re-coats easily makes sense to me. Is that the case for those brands you mention, or just the Sikkens? And Sikkens makes a few kinds, which one do you recommend?

I'm looking for a semi transparent for the floor and solid for the verticals.

Thanks

Sikkens rubbol is the only solid stain they offer. You could paint the vertical pieces it will last longer. I like the SRD for the deck=1 coat and done. If I could not find the rightcolor in Sikkens I would not hesitate to use the Cabots it is non film forming too=no removal before recoating.There are loads of colors and semi-transparent like you are looking for The water based product looks good but I have not tried it. 1 day wash and stain. I would go with Cabot if I was you. More choices and really just as good as Sikkens

Deckscapes comes in last of those three, but is still a good choice when you compare it to other products out there. However proper prep is crucial when using Deckscapes. There is really no reason to use it if the other 2 are available imo.

BobF --

Texas sun, Death Valley sun, Phoenix sun, Redding sun ... it's all about the same.

Some days they are hotter than we are, and there are days those other guys are just playing catch up with Redding.

The only heat related issues with decking that we have ever had are when folks enclose their decks with fencing and get REFLECTED heat added to the mix.

If you choose an transparent, oil-type stain (which look good), note that cooler wood absorbs more stain than warm wood. So if you are putting on stain after the sun goes low (likely, eh?) you may find it bleeding back out when the sun hits the wood. The wood fibers apparently expand and expel the excess finish--which you will have to remove with a rag. Remember not to pile the rags together if this happens to you; spontaneous combustion.