Carpentry and Woodworking - laminated counter tops
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rip_hammer
07-10-05, 11:14 AM
Just made kitchen counter top. Used two layers of 3/4" composite board. Put 2 coats of Weldwood and allowed 20 minutes drying time between each coat. Formica did not adhere to edge. I was able to peel the formica off w/ no problem. Could you tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks,
rip_hammer :wall:
Thanks,
rip_hammer :wall:
mako
07-11-05, 05:48 PM
I've never used Weldwood myself, is it a contact adhesive or a general type wood glue?
If it's a contact adhesive, did you apply the glue to both the edge of the composite *and* to the back of the laminate and let cure?
I work in a cabinet shop and we build laminate tops all the time. We use a high-test (ie, highly toxic) spray glue that's $300 for a 40lb aerosol can, but if we're building the tops in the field, we use a brush/roll on type (solvent based, not water based) that you can get at most laminate suppliers. Works great.
You can try cleaning the old weldwood off with whatever solvent it uses, most contact adhesives are dissolved with lacquer thinner. Or you can just use a belt sander and grind it off.
Be sure, when reapplying, that you use as much force as you can, using a soft piece of wood (a hunk of poplar or 2X4) to press the laminate strip.
If it's a contact adhesive, did you apply the glue to both the edge of the composite *and* to the back of the laminate and let cure?
I work in a cabinet shop and we build laminate tops all the time. We use a high-test (ie, highly toxic) spray glue that's $300 for a 40lb aerosol can, but if we're building the tops in the field, we use a brush/roll on type (solvent based, not water based) that you can get at most laminate suppliers. Works great.
You can try cleaning the old weldwood off with whatever solvent it uses, most contact adhesives are dissolved with lacquer thinner. Or you can just use a belt sander and grind it off.
Be sure, when reapplying, that you use as much force as you can, using a soft piece of wood (a hunk of poplar or 2X4) to press the laminate strip.
XSleeper
07-11-05, 06:23 PM
Apply contact cement to both surfaces, and apply pressure to the entire surface with a hand roller (a rubber roller made specifically for pressing laminate). You can apply new contact cement right over the old, provided that it is still fairly smooth- no big gobs of rolled up glue.
jafo
07-16-05, 10:23 PM
did you do this out side ? Was It humid ? or to hot or to cold ?
when you apply the glue you should be able to touch it with your finger and it should feel dry however don't wait to long or it will be dry and you will have to recoat be sure to glue both surfaces after all it is contact cament. for best results you should do this in a climate controled room.
when you apply the glue you should be able to touch it with your finger and it should feel dry however don't wait to long or it will be dry and you will have to recoat be sure to glue both surfaces after all it is contact cament. for best results you should do this in a climate controled room.
rip_hammer
07-30-05, 07:24 AM
Thanks for all the replys. It was humid the day that I did it. I removed the edgeing and sanded the composite smooth. When I reglued the edge and laminate it stuck. Just as a piece of information, I just did a ceramic tile vanity top. Had trouble keeping the bull nose on so I nailed on 5/8" half round to the edge and then used thin set onto the bull nose. Bull nose held perfect and I was still able to adjust it.
A bad day of hunting or fishing is still better than a great day at work....... :wall:
A bad day of hunting or fishing is still better than a great day at work....... :wall: