Carpentry and Woodworking - Resin Bar Top

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mlips
07-07-05, 06:08 AM
I'm looking for a information on clear 2 part resins to make a bar top with encased wine corks? What are the tips and tricks. sources of material?


Lugnut
07-07-05, 06:11 AM
Similar question asked and answerd just the other day. Scroll down the threads about a page and find thread called"Lacquer?"

Herm
07-07-05, 08:56 PM
You can access the thread that Lugnut mentioned by clicking on the link below.

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=220205

I don't want to sound like a salesman for this product called Envirotex Lite, but I have used it on many bar tops that I have built over the years, with nothing but good results. I have covered everything from old wiskey bottle lables, to keys - even car hood ornaments with a super thick finish.

My post in that thread has a link to the manufacturer's website that gives you tips on how to get the best result from their product. Here is the link to their website....
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm


mako
07-11-05, 05:53 PM
Bartop resins are awesome things, but be sure it's something you'll NEVER want to refinish, b/c the stuff doesn't come off.

It does bubble some, but it also takes a while to cure. You can blow the bubbles out- make them pop- as they form.

Note that it will likely collect some dust since it takes hours to cure, so be prepared and apply it in as dust-free an area as you can (ie, not outside if possible). You can use some 0000 steel wool (not kitchen steel wool, get it at Lowes painting dept) to rub out any dust, but it will cut down on the glossy sheen a bit, which I personally prefer anyway.

captwally
07-16-05, 04:47 AM
If you check out that other link that lugnut and Herm mentioned, you'll find my two cents worth and experience as well.

One of my projects was a nautical chart, splashed with sand, shells and a fake gold coin or two. I was worried about bubbles, and someone told me that using a small butane torch pointed at them would get them to come to the surface where they would dissapate. I did not try that. I was worried that the heat would cause uneven curing of the resin. I don't know if this is true or not. Perhaps it really works. Instead I coaxed the pesky bubbles out to the surface with a toothpick before the resin cured so it could still level itself.

And yes, I buffed the surface to a matte finish so it was not quite perfectly shiny but still very clear. It looked better.