Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - 1/16 gap during 3/4 HW install on long run
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JakeLukas
07-04-05, 11:20 PM
Hello,
Need some advice
I'm installing 3/4 pre-finished oak HW flooring at a 45 deg diagonal on our main floor aprox 580 sq feet. On the longest run that spans the 3 rooms (about 50 feet) where the flooring continues from one room to the next (near the nail gun in the photo) 8 rows of are slightly off.
So that now I'm getting 1/16 + inch gap at the end of the run when it nears the wall in the ajoining room. Either I didn’t align the run properly or it might have shifted during the first couple runs with the floor nailer but for some reason was not noticeable until just now.
What’s the best way to correct this? The room still has a long way to go and I’m worried that the problem will get worse after each row if I try to force the boards together. Should I leave the boards run straight and correct the couple gaps with wood putty? Or should I be pulling out the boards (aprox 50 sq feet) and redo the initial run in that room? (Don’t really like the second option :) ).
Anyhow if the this space was in the corner or under furniture I wouldn’t care that much however this in the main walk through and is noticeable as the light will show the space between the boards very clearly.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jake
<img src="http://************/6qk785.jpg" alt="Image hosted by ************">
Need some advice
I'm installing 3/4 pre-finished oak HW flooring at a 45 deg diagonal on our main floor aprox 580 sq feet. On the longest run that spans the 3 rooms (about 50 feet) where the flooring continues from one room to the next (near the nail gun in the photo) 8 rows of are slightly off.
So that now I'm getting 1/16 + inch gap at the end of the run when it nears the wall in the ajoining room. Either I didn’t align the run properly or it might have shifted during the first couple runs with the floor nailer but for some reason was not noticeable until just now.
What’s the best way to correct this? The room still has a long way to go and I’m worried that the problem will get worse after each row if I try to force the boards together. Should I leave the boards run straight and correct the couple gaps with wood putty? Or should I be pulling out the boards (aprox 50 sq feet) and redo the initial run in that room? (Don’t really like the second option :) ).
Anyhow if the this space was in the corner or under furniture I wouldn’t care that much however this in the main walk through and is noticeable as the light will show the space between the boards very clearly.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jake
<img src="http://************/6qk785.jpg" alt="Image hosted by ************">
Marco1
07-05-05, 10:02 AM
Its not uncommon to have to make slight correctionsm in that type of install, it's just a little more difficult with prefinished. Usually, you can do this by slightly shimming the boards enough to correct over several rows. I was taught to use a a nail or cleat between boards, either under the tongue or if thats too much, shim it temporarily with a cleat sticking up, which gets pulled after you've nailed a row or two beyond. For prefinished, I'd consider using something with less chance to damage, something long and thin like a ruler edge. You will need to putty, but if spread over several rows, it shouldn't be noticable.
I noticed your base is up. Have you left expansion room?
I noticed your base is up. Have you left expansion room?
JakeLukas
07-05-05, 10:28 AM
Hi Marco,
Its funny you should mention that. I found my new favorite tool, electric baseboard/door jam saw. We just finished painting, crown molding and extending the baseboards on the main floor. The hardwood was purchased last min at an auction so the install was unplanned and unexpected. So instead of removing all the baseboards I opted to trim the bottom. Worked out very well, once cut there was about 1 inch clearance with the thickness of the baseboard and the drywall.
Thanks for suggestion using spacers, it will help divide up the gap evenly. I will try the ruler or perhaps use a cleat on its side with a string tied to it for removal providing its not to tight to pull out later.
Any recommendations on the type of putty/wood filler to use on this type of application?
Thanks
Jake
Its funny you should mention that. I found my new favorite tool, electric baseboard/door jam saw. We just finished painting, crown molding and extending the baseboards on the main floor. The hardwood was purchased last min at an auction so the install was unplanned and unexpected. So instead of removing all the baseboards I opted to trim the bottom. Worked out very well, once cut there was about 1 inch clearance with the thickness of the baseboard and the drywall.
Thanks for suggestion using spacers, it will help divide up the gap evenly. I will try the ruler or perhaps use a cleat on its side with a string tied to it for removal providing its not to tight to pull out later.
Any recommendations on the type of putty/wood filler to use on this type of application?
Thanks
Jake
Marco1
07-05-05, 10:52 AM
Filler can be the tough part for prefinished in my experience. Often, the manufacturer will provide a filler in the floor care package, but it is usually oil-base and cant be covered with finish. Look around for a water base filler that matches or can be colored and then cover the cracks with a water base finish to keep the dirt out.
JakeLukas
07-05-05, 12:33 PM
Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look at my local HD and see what they have for pre coloured wood filler. I'll try to post some pictures of the before and after.
Thanks
Jake
Thanks
Jake
Carpets Done Wright
07-06-05, 08:59 PM
The Bruce filler is hard to beat. I just wish they had some with a little more red in there darkest filler. I can mix there dark and light filler to make almaost any hugh in between. I just need some red pignemt for floors like I'm on now.
Woodwise has some color filler too.
Woodwise has some color filler too.
mike123333
07-07-05, 05:40 AM
Don't mean to steal the thread, but my question goes in line with your gapping issue. Is there a set time when the filler needs to be inserted in the gaps or can this be done immediately after installation.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Carpets Done Wright
07-07-05, 08:44 PM
You can color fill anytime you plaese. Even for slight damage that happens during the life of the floor.