Flooring Tile - Slate tile
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abefrohman
06-08-05, 08:32 AM
I am putting down slate tile in my kitchen. My House was built in 1928 and i seriously doubt that the room is square. Should I start in a corner or in the middle of the room? I have never done tile before and would greatly appreciate the advice. Thanks, Abe
future
06-08-05, 11:23 AM
I am putting down slate tile in my kitchen. My House was built in 1928 and i seriously doubt that the room is square. Should I start in a corner or in the middle of the room? I have never done tile before and would greatly appreciate the advice. Thanks, Abe
First of all you'll need a chalk line, tape measure and pencil when doing this....and another person.
I usually pick a wall where I'd like my full tiles (non cut ones) to be placed. It would be ideal if all (or most) of your cut tiles will end up under your cabinets and thus, won't be seen.
To square up a room, you need to use Pythagoream's Therom which is normally called 3,4,5. Do a google search and enter "pythagorean theorem + picture". You'll see many examples of how to use it. If you have a bigger room, 6,8,10 will also work. Here's how the theory works using 2x4's as an example.
If you had a 3ft piece of wood and you lay it down. On one end of that wood you put a 4' piece of wood but you put it perpendicular (like you're making the letter L)....you may think it's exactly perpendicular but to prove it you need to measure the diagonal distance (that is, the distance between your 2 open ends of the wood). If this distance is 5', then you know that your 2 pieces of wood are exactly square. If not, you have to adjust one piece of wood until it ends up equalling 5'.
Let's assume the slate you are using are 12" x 12". Then I would mark off 2' away from one wall where you'd like to have full tiles on. Chalk line it all the way down the floor. Then on the opposite wall, mark off 2' again on the floor and chalk line that one. You'll now have 2 lines on the floor that might look perpendicular but you have to check it. From where the 2 lines intersect, mark off 3 ft. going one way (call it point A) and 4 ft. going the other way (call it point B). Now the distance between points A and B should be 5ft. If not, adjust one of the points (A or B and preferably the line where your cuts are going to go) so that it will equal 5 ft.
I don't start in the middle b/c then you'll probably have cut tiles on all your walls as opposed to cut tiles where they may be hidden by cabinets or phone desks.
BTW, it's easier to have 2 people check this. And remember, as you lay your tiles, check them every couple of rows to make sure you are keeping square.
Hope this helps.
First of all you'll need a chalk line, tape measure and pencil when doing this....and another person.
I usually pick a wall where I'd like my full tiles (non cut ones) to be placed. It would be ideal if all (or most) of your cut tiles will end up under your cabinets and thus, won't be seen.
To square up a room, you need to use Pythagoream's Therom which is normally called 3,4,5. Do a google search and enter "pythagorean theorem + picture". You'll see many examples of how to use it. If you have a bigger room, 6,8,10 will also work. Here's how the theory works using 2x4's as an example.
If you had a 3ft piece of wood and you lay it down. On one end of that wood you put a 4' piece of wood but you put it perpendicular (like you're making the letter L)....you may think it's exactly perpendicular but to prove it you need to measure the diagonal distance (that is, the distance between your 2 open ends of the wood). If this distance is 5', then you know that your 2 pieces of wood are exactly square. If not, you have to adjust one piece of wood until it ends up equalling 5'.
Let's assume the slate you are using are 12" x 12". Then I would mark off 2' away from one wall where you'd like to have full tiles on. Chalk line it all the way down the floor. Then on the opposite wall, mark off 2' again on the floor and chalk line that one. You'll now have 2 lines on the floor that might look perpendicular but you have to check it. From where the 2 lines intersect, mark off 3 ft. going one way (call it point A) and 4 ft. going the other way (call it point B). Now the distance between points A and B should be 5ft. If not, adjust one of the points (A or B and preferably the line where your cuts are going to go) so that it will equal 5 ft.
I don't start in the middle b/c then you'll probably have cut tiles on all your walls as opposed to cut tiles where they may be hidden by cabinets or phone desks.
BTW, it's easier to have 2 people check this. And remember, as you lay your tiles, check them every couple of rows to make sure you are keeping square.
Hope this helps.
Tilebri
06-08-05, 11:50 AM
Befoer you go any further, slate requires twice the support of ceramic. I fthe house is not on a slab, what is your joist size, spacing and length of unsupported span? What is your subfloor and anything else that may be there at this time, including what you did to prepare for the installation. If you are on a slab, is there any cracks, paint, sealers, adhesive residue on there?
ghumphri
06-15-05, 06:37 AM
I'm planning a Vermont Slate floor in my kitchen and 1/2 bath. I've never heard that slate requires additional support as compared to ceramic. What rules apply? I have a 1/2 plywood decking over 2x12 on 16" spaced joists that has approx 14-16 feet between supports (basement wall to I-beam). Planned on laying either another layer of 1/2 plywood or Hardibacker as subfloor.
Thanks.
Thanks.