Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - My Sawzall has a rod knock?
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jbclem
06-05-05, 06:45 PM
I have an older sawzall, 4.0 amp type 6511. It still works but makes a knocking noise with each stroke. I have a parts schematic for it but I'm not sure which parts to look at (when I take it apart) in trying to diagnose and fix the problem. There must be some common part that has just worn out over the years, now producing this noise, and what seems to be more vibration. Any thoughts on this?
john
john
IBM5081
06-05-05, 09:30 PM
When you are cutting material (blade and motor under load), does it make one knock per stroke or two?
When the saw is just running without cutting anything, is the sound different?
With the saw unplugged, pulling / pushing on the blade by hand, is there any looseness noted?
When the saw is running, can you feel an impact on any specific place on the outside of the tool (with blade removed for safety)?
Once you get inside, wipe out any lubricant and look for points of impact that appear to have been hammered by the internal mechanism. Look for any part of the mechanism that appears scuffed or distorted due to repeated impact. Also, try to operate the mechanism by hand and note any sloppiness in it that is not designed to be there.
Consider purchasing a rebuilt or repaired sawzall. I was able to get a Super Sawzall in used condition for $60, the price of the repairs that had been put into it. About 1/3 the cost of new. Unless you just want to tinker with it, it could be time to get a newer one. You can still poke around with the old one, but you will have one that is new-to-you that is reliable.
When the saw is just running without cutting anything, is the sound different?
With the saw unplugged, pulling / pushing on the blade by hand, is there any looseness noted?
When the saw is running, can you feel an impact on any specific place on the outside of the tool (with blade removed for safety)?
Once you get inside, wipe out any lubricant and look for points of impact that appear to have been hammered by the internal mechanism. Look for any part of the mechanism that appears scuffed or distorted due to repeated impact. Also, try to operate the mechanism by hand and note any sloppiness in it that is not designed to be there.
Consider purchasing a rebuilt or repaired sawzall. I was able to get a Super Sawzall in used condition for $60, the price of the repairs that had been put into it. About 1/3 the cost of new. Unless you just want to tinker with it, it could be time to get a newer one. You can still poke around with the old one, but you will have one that is new-to-you that is reliable.
jbclem
06-27-05, 04:49 PM
Hi IBM, if you're still interested here are a few observations about the Sawzall noise.
Play...I can move the blade in and out about 1/8th inch with the motor off.
Noise...seems to be the same cutting or not cutting. To describe it better, it's not really a rattle but more a loudness, a clattering type noise coming from the mechanism. It's not horrible but about twice as loud as normal. Can't really tell if it makes one knock per stroke or two. It moves too fast to distinguish this.
Do you have any opinion about the newer Sawzall(11 amp) with orbital cutting action (supposed to have much less vibration)? Do the new ones cut alot faster than the old ones like mine?
John
Play...I can move the blade in and out about 1/8th inch with the motor off.
Noise...seems to be the same cutting or not cutting. To describe it better, it's not really a rattle but more a loudness, a clattering type noise coming from the mechanism. It's not horrible but about twice as loud as normal. Can't really tell if it makes one knock per stroke or two. It moves too fast to distinguish this.
Do you have any opinion about the newer Sawzall(11 amp) with orbital cutting action (supposed to have much less vibration)? Do the new ones cut alot faster than the old ones like mine?
John