Water Heaters - Water heater T/P valve leaking after Water Softener install.
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anathema
05-21-05, 10:12 AM
A few days (2) after installng a new water softener the T/P value began a steady drip fom the GAS water heater. I'm not a big believer in coincidences so what would cause this?
The water heater is 6 years old as is the house. We've never had a problem with it and have never adjusted the temperature setting which is at "normal". On the other hand, I've never done any kind of regular maintenace on it either (including draining it).
During my cursory research, I found one website that said that excess pressure will be pushed back through the water supply line to the street absent any check valves or the like.
My best guess is that the water softener is now between the the heater and street and its acting as a block thus pressure is being released through the T/P valve.
The water heater is 6 years old as is the house. We've never had a problem with it and have never adjusted the temperature setting which is at "normal". On the other hand, I've never done any kind of regular maintenace on it either (including draining it).
During my cursory research, I found one website that said that excess pressure will be pushed back through the water supply line to the street absent any check valves or the like.
My best guess is that the water softener is now between the the heater and street and its acting as a block thus pressure is being released through the T/P valve.
majakdragon
05-21-05, 10:37 AM
anathema, Welcome to the DIY Forums.
I would turn off the water heater, drain it down and flush it, and install a new T/P valve while I had it drained. If the softener is "blocking" the pressure from the tank then you should get "bursts" of water from any hot faucet you use when initially turned on. (the release of built up pressure). Most T/P valves open at 150 pounds pressure or 210°. I would think that much pressure would be easily noticeable. I believe your T/P valve is just due to be replaced. This is also the cheapest first option.
I have also included a link for draining and flushing water heaters. This is a simple way to get more life from the heater and save money on fuel costs (debris that settles on the bottom of the tank has to be heated before the water gets heated resulting in higher gas bills). Good luck.
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=134483
I would turn off the water heater, drain it down and flush it, and install a new T/P valve while I had it drained. If the softener is "blocking" the pressure from the tank then you should get "bursts" of water from any hot faucet you use when initially turned on. (the release of built up pressure). Most T/P valves open at 150 pounds pressure or 210°. I would think that much pressure would be easily noticeable. I believe your T/P valve is just due to be replaced. This is also the cheapest first option.
I have also included a link for draining and flushing water heaters. This is a simple way to get more life from the heater and save money on fuel costs (debris that settles on the bottom of the tank has to be heated before the water gets heated resulting in higher gas bills). Good luck.
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=134483
Ejbogusch
05-22-05, 06:17 PM
The first thing you need to do is check the incoming water pressure. I stress this because this check will tell you what is going on with your system. Then a proper diagnosis can be made.