Doors and Windows - Patio Door advice
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szr8vg04
05-16-05, 06:19 AM
Hello,
I'm new to the site but have been lurking for awhile. I am installing an anderson patio door. I went to remove the existing patio door and noticed the wood under the existing patio door is rotted. To explain futher, the existing patio door was placed on 1/4" plywood to raise it up. It does'nt look like the plywood is treated. My question is when I replace this wood should I use treated plywood or is their a better material out there?
Thanks
Bill
I'm new to the site but have been lurking for awhile. I am installing an anderson patio door. I went to remove the existing patio door and noticed the wood under the existing patio door is rotted. To explain futher, the existing patio door was placed on 1/4" plywood to raise it up. It does'nt look like the plywood is treated. My question is when I replace this wood should I use treated plywood or is their a better material out there?
Thanks
Bill
XSleeper
05-16-05, 06:40 PM
I guess my first question would be: does the new door need to be shimmed up 1/4", or can it be installed right on the floor? Whether the shim is treated or not is really irrelevant. The floor which it is sitting on is likely not treated either.
The fact that the shim was rotton indicates that it was subjected to constant wetting- something you should ensure does not happen again. The material you use as a shim makes no difference as long as it stays dry.
The best way to ensure a leak-proof door installation is to use a pan flashing. It is sure to keep water from entering your home under the door threshold, because it is literally like half of a pan; the back and sides are turned up like a cake pan, while the front side is turned down as a flashing.
If a pan flashing is not needed, the bottom of the rough opening ought to be flashed over the building paper, at a minimum. You can do this with either metal flashings, or a new peel-and-stick membrane like tyvek flex-wrap. Many people still use tarpaper, which would also work better than nothing, which is what you had from the sounds of it. Cut a 12" strip of tarpaper that is a foot longer than the opening, and staple it to the floor, then fold it over the sheathing on the bottom, then make one vertical cut at the corner and fold it up the rough opening and out onto the sheathing. Cover the sides with strips of tarpaper in the same manner. Caulk the tar out of the bottom with silicone, then set the door in place. Then cover the top nailing fin with another strip of tarpaper that is tucked underneath the current building paper so as to flash the entire top of the door.
When you install the door, you need to ensure that the bottom is completely sealed so that water cannot blow back under the threshold of your new door. (and rot out the floor like it rotted out your 1/4" plywood shim)
The fact that the shim was rotton indicates that it was subjected to constant wetting- something you should ensure does not happen again. The material you use as a shim makes no difference as long as it stays dry.
The best way to ensure a leak-proof door installation is to use a pan flashing. It is sure to keep water from entering your home under the door threshold, because it is literally like half of a pan; the back and sides are turned up like a cake pan, while the front side is turned down as a flashing.
If a pan flashing is not needed, the bottom of the rough opening ought to be flashed over the building paper, at a minimum. You can do this with either metal flashings, or a new peel-and-stick membrane like tyvek flex-wrap. Many people still use tarpaper, which would also work better than nothing, which is what you had from the sounds of it. Cut a 12" strip of tarpaper that is a foot longer than the opening, and staple it to the floor, then fold it over the sheathing on the bottom, then make one vertical cut at the corner and fold it up the rough opening and out onto the sheathing. Cover the sides with strips of tarpaper in the same manner. Caulk the tar out of the bottom with silicone, then set the door in place. Then cover the top nailing fin with another strip of tarpaper that is tucked underneath the current building paper so as to flash the entire top of the door.
When you install the door, you need to ensure that the bottom is completely sealed so that water cannot blow back under the threshold of your new door. (and rot out the floor like it rotted out your 1/4" plywood shim)
JimRoe
06-23-05, 04:59 PM
To the reply to Patio Door advice, can anyone tell us how to get the secured door out of the track? We removed the sliding door and the piece of plastic threshold which appeared to be holding in the door. Now, though it will slide to where the sliding door was, it seems that something is still holding it in the track. (we are removing it to take it to glass repair; it's double paned and the outside was shattered by a rock thrown by weed wacker!). It does not appear that it will rise up enough to clear the track edge holding it in. Will loosening the screws at top and bottom make it more flexible? Any ideas appreciated.
XSleeper
06-23-05, 05:09 PM
Not sure what kind of door you have, but I think that some Anderson doors have an interior stop along the top edge that must be removed. It allows the top of the fixed side to tip into the home.
If it's on rollers, perhaps the rollers need to be adjusted (downward) so that it can be lifted high enough to jump the track. Sometimes it's just a case of not being able to lift it high enough. 2 people using a couple prybars and putty knives in unison will sometimes help raise it up enough.
If it's on rollers, perhaps the rollers need to be adjusted (downward) so that it can be lifted high enough to jump the track. Sometimes it's just a case of not being able to lift it high enough. 2 people using a couple prybars and putty knives in unison will sometimes help raise it up enough.