Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Deck questions
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bonwagner
05-11-05, 01:37 PM
I am putting up a 12'X16' deck and i have 2 questions.
First, we have a 6'X10' concrete slab where my deck will be. I was thinking that i could use the concrete deck blocks in the center where the concrete slab is and then dig the holes for the rest of the post. Does anyone see any problems with this?
The second question is that I wanted to use the dec-klips for the deck board fasteners. Has anyone ever used them and did the lumber swrink and leave the dec-klips exposed? Oh, by the way, i will be using the normal deck boards at Lowes, i believe it is called choice.
any help would be great.
First, we have a 6'X10' concrete slab where my deck will be. I was thinking that i could use the concrete deck blocks in the center where the concrete slab is and then dig the holes for the rest of the post. Does anyone see any problems with this?
The second question is that I wanted to use the dec-klips for the deck board fasteners. Has anyone ever used them and did the lumber swrink and leave the dec-klips exposed? Oh, by the way, i will be using the normal deck boards at Lowes, i believe it is called choice.
any help would be great.
Ed Imeduc
05-11-05, 01:44 PM
Id check with code there first that slab can go up and down with the frost.
ED ;)
ED ;)
jay_myself
05-17-05, 09:14 PM
on the concrete i concur with above. check with your building code. on the deck clips, there are several available, but yes, your pt wood will shrink and it will also want to warp because that is what all pt wood does. it doesn't make a difference whether it is labeled "select" "premium" ,"choice" or other marketing name.
pt wood today, (in fact all wood) is new growth, harvested for use in about 7 yrs after planting. the wood is more open than old growth trees that will still available 15 yrs ago. the new growth wood cells are not as tight and because the trees are young, they will have many knots. a kiln dried 2x4 stud in a house wall is fine, but a pine plank, filled under pressure with green stuff (mostly water) will begin to dry the minute it is exposed to sun and dry air. there isn't anything you can do to stop the warp if it wants to twist. sealers, etc won't help much.
if you were using a composite, the extra cost of clips would be a nice addition, but i wonder about the justification using them on a pt deck. there is one called "Tiger claw" and i think home depot carries them. Still it is much more expensive than deck screws. since you are using pt wood and the screw will sink down into the wood anyway, i would suggest screws.
also, the screws will hold the deck boards down better and resist twisting better than the clips.
pt wood today, (in fact all wood) is new growth, harvested for use in about 7 yrs after planting. the wood is more open than old growth trees that will still available 15 yrs ago. the new growth wood cells are not as tight and because the trees are young, they will have many knots. a kiln dried 2x4 stud in a house wall is fine, but a pine plank, filled under pressure with green stuff (mostly water) will begin to dry the minute it is exposed to sun and dry air. there isn't anything you can do to stop the warp if it wants to twist. sealers, etc won't help much.
if you were using a composite, the extra cost of clips would be a nice addition, but i wonder about the justification using them on a pt deck. there is one called "Tiger claw" and i think home depot carries them. Still it is much more expensive than deck screws. since you are using pt wood and the screw will sink down into the wood anyway, i would suggest screws.
also, the screws will hold the deck boards down better and resist twisting better than the clips.