Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Updating 1958 Shower Head and Faucets
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kirkeric
05-01-05, 08:44 AM
Hello,
Two quick questions. I have a 1958 ranch home and the original shower head is "fixed" to the main pipe so I can not remove it and update without cutting it off. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Second, same shower area faucets (as well as a sink) are so old that they dont fully close enough to shut off the water. No leaking around the faucet itself, but the spout continues to drizzle because it wont shut off entirely.
What is the best way to go about fixing? I would think the obvious is get knew knobs, gaskets, shut off main line, remove and replace. But since it is this old, are there any problems I may run into?
Thanks,
Eric Kirk
Two quick questions. I have a 1958 ranch home and the original shower head is "fixed" to the main pipe so I can not remove it and update without cutting it off. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Second, same shower area faucets (as well as a sink) are so old that they dont fully close enough to shut off the water. No leaking around the faucet itself, but the spout continues to drizzle because it wont shut off entirely.
What is the best way to go about fixing? I would think the obvious is get knew knobs, gaskets, shut off main line, remove and replace. But since it is this old, are there any problems I may run into?
Thanks,
Eric Kirk
majakdragon
05-01-05, 09:16 AM
I have never seen a one piece showerhead/arm. At any rate, the arm (the pipe that goes through the wall should unscrew from the elbow in the wall. Before removing it though, pull the coverplate away from the wall and see if you can move the pipe around. Reason for this is to see if the elbow in the wall is secured to a wood block so it doesn't drop or sway sideways when you unscrew the arm. You can buy a new arm. Use 3 or 4 wraps of teflon thread tape on the threads when you install it.
The faucets should have caps that can be removed after you turn off the supply valves under the sink(s). Some screw on and some are plastic and pop off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the screw that holds the handle on. It may be a bit difficult to remove the handles since they have been there a long time. Wiggling and sometimes prying (evenly) will usually persuade them. Not sure if you have covers that sit right on the sink surface but if so, remove them. They may have caulk holding them in place to stop spashed water from running under them and onto the floor. You should see a nut there. Loosen it and then slip the handle back on and use it to unscrew the stem. (you may have to remove the nut you loosened to get the stem out). On the end of the stem that is inside the sink there will be a rubber washer, or whats left of it. It is held on by a screw also. Take the whole stem with you to get new washers. There are a few different shapes and sizes. The washer is why the watre does not shut off and dribbles out the spout. After repacing the washer, reverse the steps and put it back together. Good luck with your project.
The faucets should have caps that can be removed after you turn off the supply valves under the sink(s). Some screw on and some are plastic and pop off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the screw that holds the handle on. It may be a bit difficult to remove the handles since they have been there a long time. Wiggling and sometimes prying (evenly) will usually persuade them. Not sure if you have covers that sit right on the sink surface but if so, remove them. They may have caulk holding them in place to stop spashed water from running under them and onto the floor. You should see a nut there. Loosen it and then slip the handle back on and use it to unscrew the stem. (you may have to remove the nut you loosened to get the stem out). On the end of the stem that is inside the sink there will be a rubber washer, or whats left of it. It is held on by a screw also. Take the whole stem with you to get new washers. There are a few different shapes and sizes. The washer is why the watre does not shut off and dribbles out the spout. After repacing the washer, reverse the steps and put it back together. Good luck with your project.
kirkeric
05-02-05, 10:04 AM
I appreciate your speedy reply. I had already bought that elbow piece when I saw it at home depot, thought, maybe mine will come out. I went back, got a good bite on it and it didn't want to loosen so I wrote here. So you think it should come loose?
The wall is tile so if possible, I would like to avoid having to rip it out. When attempting to unscrew it, it felt like it was maybe secured to a stud or something and was not to loose.
It has limited room around, maybe about 1/4 inch free around the pipe, then covered by that little cap.
Any info is appreciated.
Eric
I have never seen a one piece showerhead/arm. At any rate, the arm (the pipe that goes through the wall should unscrew from the elbow in the wall. Before removing it though, pull the coverplate away from the wall and see if you can move the pipe around. Reason for this is to see if the elbow in the wall is secured to a wood block so it doesn't drop or sway sideways when you unscrew the arm. You can buy a new arm. Use 3 or 4 wraps of teflon thread tape on the threads when you install it.
The faucets should have caps that can be removed after you turn off the supply valves under the sink(s). Some screw on and some are plastic and pop off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the screw that holds the handle on. It may be a bit difficult to remove the handles since they have been there a long time. Wiggling and sometimes prying (evenly) will usually persuade them. Not sure if you have covers that sit right on the sink surface but if so, remove them. They may have caulk holding them in place to stop spashed water from running under them and onto the floor. You should see a nut there. Loosen it and then slip the handle back on and use it to unscrew the stem. (you may have to remove the nut you loosened to get the stem out). On the end of the stem that is inside the sink there will be a rubber washer, or whats left of it. It is held on by a screw also. Take the whole stem with you to get new washers. There are a few different shapes and sizes. The washer is why the watre does not shut off and dribbles out the spout. After repacing the washer, reverse the steps and put it back together. Good luck with your project.
The wall is tile so if possible, I would like to avoid having to rip it out. When attempting to unscrew it, it felt like it was maybe secured to a stud or something and was not to loose.
It has limited room around, maybe about 1/4 inch free around the pipe, then covered by that little cap.
Any info is appreciated.
Eric
I have never seen a one piece showerhead/arm. At any rate, the arm (the pipe that goes through the wall should unscrew from the elbow in the wall. Before removing it though, pull the coverplate away from the wall and see if you can move the pipe around. Reason for this is to see if the elbow in the wall is secured to a wood block so it doesn't drop or sway sideways when you unscrew the arm. You can buy a new arm. Use 3 or 4 wraps of teflon thread tape on the threads when you install it.
The faucets should have caps that can be removed after you turn off the supply valves under the sink(s). Some screw on and some are plastic and pop off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the screw that holds the handle on. It may be a bit difficult to remove the handles since they have been there a long time. Wiggling and sometimes prying (evenly) will usually persuade them. Not sure if you have covers that sit right on the sink surface but if so, remove them. They may have caulk holding them in place to stop spashed water from running under them and onto the floor. You should see a nut there. Loosen it and then slip the handle back on and use it to unscrew the stem. (you may have to remove the nut you loosened to get the stem out). On the end of the stem that is inside the sink there will be a rubber washer, or whats left of it. It is held on by a screw also. Take the whole stem with you to get new washers. There are a few different shapes and sizes. The washer is why the watre does not shut off and dribbles out the spout. After repacing the washer, reverse the steps and put it back together. Good luck with your project.
kirkeric
05-02-05, 10:09 AM
I meant to ask another question. With regard to the faucets. Your answer was great, but since the main culprit is actually the leaky tub spout, does that thing just twist off? Handles are pretty self explanatory but the spout itself? If I replace, I would replace the set.
Thanks again.
Eric
I have never seen a one piece showerhead/arm. At any rate, the arm (the pipe that goes through the wall should unscrew from the elbow in the wall. Before removing it though, pull the coverplate away from the wall and see if you can move the pipe around. Reason for this is to see if the elbow in the wall is secured to a wood block so it doesn't drop or sway sideways when you unscrew the arm. You can buy a new arm. Use 3 or 4 wraps of teflon thread tape on the threads when you install it.
The faucets should have caps that can be removed after you turn off the supply valves under the sink(s). Some screw on and some are plastic and pop off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the screw that holds the handle on. It may be a bit difficult to remove the handles since they have been there a long time. Wiggling and sometimes prying (evenly) will usually persuade them. Not sure if you have covers that sit right on the sink surface but if so, remove them. They may have caulk holding them in place to stop spashed water from running under them and onto the floor. You should see a nut there. Loosen it and then slip the handle back on and use it to unscrew the stem. (you may have to remove the nut you loosened to get the stem out). On the end of the stem that is inside the sink there will be a rubber washer, or whats left of it. It is held on by a screw also. Take the whole stem with you to get new washers. There are a few different shapes and sizes. The washer is why the watre does not shut off and dribbles out the spout. After repacing the washer, reverse the steps and put it back together. Good luck with your project.
Thanks again.
Eric
I have never seen a one piece showerhead/arm. At any rate, the arm (the pipe that goes through the wall should unscrew from the elbow in the wall. Before removing it though, pull the coverplate away from the wall and see if you can move the pipe around. Reason for this is to see if the elbow in the wall is secured to a wood block so it doesn't drop or sway sideways when you unscrew the arm. You can buy a new arm. Use 3 or 4 wraps of teflon thread tape on the threads when you install it.
The faucets should have caps that can be removed after you turn off the supply valves under the sink(s). Some screw on and some are plastic and pop off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the screw that holds the handle on. It may be a bit difficult to remove the handles since they have been there a long time. Wiggling and sometimes prying (evenly) will usually persuade them. Not sure if you have covers that sit right on the sink surface but if so, remove them. They may have caulk holding them in place to stop spashed water from running under them and onto the floor. You should see a nut there. Loosen it and then slip the handle back on and use it to unscrew the stem. (you may have to remove the nut you loosened to get the stem out). On the end of the stem that is inside the sink there will be a rubber washer, or whats left of it. It is held on by a screw also. Take the whole stem with you to get new washers. There are a few different shapes and sizes. The washer is why the watre does not shut off and dribbles out the spout. After repacing the washer, reverse the steps and put it back together. Good luck with your project.
majakdragon
05-03-05, 10:46 AM
Lok under the spout back where it meets the wall. If there is a slot there, you need a hex (allen) wrench to loosen a screw that is inside the slot. Then it has "O" rings that seal the spout to the pipe. It will just pull off though. If no slot, It screws onto a threaded pipe. When replacing, make sure the threads inside the spout are the same distance from the back end of the spout or you will need to shorten or lengthen the pipe.