Walls and Ceilings - new drywall; use sandpaper or sanding screens?

I have heard different opinions, but which is better to use, sandpaper or sanding screens for finishing the drywall seems? This is mainly for new drywall on a ceiling which will not be getting a typical "popcorn" treatment.

Thanks.

Jeff Nichols

whatever is handy. If you go witht he screen get the least rough grit so as to not leave scratches if this is the finish coat. Screens are good if you have a lot to do because they do not clog up.Read this.

"Sanding drywall seams involves two steps: Make a first pass using a pole sander with a universal joint and fitted with 120-grit sandpaper. Then hand-sand using 150-grit sandpaper. For this step, fold the sandpaper in quarters, or attach it to a sanding block. As an alternative to this two-step process, you can sand using a fine screen mounted on a handle, or wet-sand (a dustless approach) using a small-celled polyurethane sponge designed for this purpose. Wet-sanding with one of these sponges does not yield so fine a finish as dry-sanding to 150-grit, but in situations that don't permit dust, it makes a good substitute for the pole-sanding/hand-sanding technique. If you're particularly sensitive to dust (or happen to have the equipment handy), you can use a commercial sanding machine with a wet/dry vacuum attachment for nearly dust-free sanding.

If possible, seal off your work area to keep dust from drifting into finished rooms. To accomplish this, set up a dust barrier of polyethylene sheets between the workspace and all clean areas, and seal all edges with masking tape. Keep in mind that joint-compound dust is very fine-grained and can escape through tiny cracks between doors and jambs or around unsealed dust barriers. For your own safety, wear a dust mask and safety goggles while working. You might also want to wear a hat to keep much of the dust out of your hair.

Sanding Drywall Seams

Lighting the work area carefully is essential to good finish-sanding. If you shine light directly on a drywall joint, imperfections may not show up. Move the light to the side of the drywall, or shine it from above or below, and you're more likely to detect creases, recesses, bulges, and other defects. For this purpose, acquire a portable, high-powered light source, such as a halogen lamp. Place it on a stand in order to free up both hands, or carry a portable light in one hand and sandpaper in the other as you return to survey the joints and spot-sand any imperfections"

Neither sandpaper nor screens will save you if you did a bad taping job :ie a big hump under the tape

I've used the screens and used 120 for the first layer, 150 for the second and 220 for the third. Perfect!