Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Question about GE\ITI Concord and installing wireless lamp module

The instructions aren't too descriptive for either the GE or the X10 with setting up the wireless stuff. I have the module plugged into the panel that allows for the wireless modules. I've got the antennas setup and working too. Then I checked my panel for the house codes, per instructions.

I then setup the lamp module to reflect the letter\number combination from the house code. I plugged in the lamp, which should fit the requirements of the module, into the wireless module. Then I plug the wireless module into a "not light switchable" outlet.

Then I just did a test on the system of 0, 0 (which should turn lights on\off). The keypad displayed Lights On or Lights Off, but the lamp did not reflect those changes. The lights did not change at all.

Did I miss some setup on the panel or could it be my lamp specs?

Thanks!

You have the module, but do you have the x-10 compatible transformer for the panel?

If yes, try other outlets, you may be having issues with being on the wrong "side" of you breaker panel (there is a phase coupler that corrects this issue).

There are a couple of other things to check, but those two are at the top of the list.

Do I swap out the other (Elk) transformer that came with the panel, that I'm currently using? I ordered it as it was a requirement but I thought it was extra. I imagine this is the issue. I figured the spcs were the same.

The Elk transformer is really nice with a grounding prong & terminal, auto-reset with overload protection and a little LED. The other transformer has similar specs (24 VAC, 30VA Line Carrier Transformer 1 Amp - 60-762) that was required for X10 devices has no grounding prong which seems like an issue with an expensive piece of equipment.


I looked into the definition for Power Line Carrier: A device for producing radio-frequency power for transmission on power lines. That's what I'm missing.

So I probably will look into returning/upgrading the 60-762 transformer to the 60-779, which I believe has the grounding prong and terminal.

(I guess I can't have the panel use it's antennas/RF to communicate to wireless modules?)

Thanks

Yes, you have to use the line carrier transformer. That is the only way that the X-10 signal is injected into your house wiring. This isn't a wireless broadcast, it's transmitted through the house 120v wiring.

After looking into the next version of transformer that is offered for the Power Line Carrier (X10) Card (60-755), I found that it also is w/o the grounding prong and terminal. The customer support say that the grounding through the plug will interfere with the Line Carrier Transformer.

So I can either do w/o the X10 capability and just manually turn on lights :) or
just use the ungrounded transformer and ground the panel to a cold water pipe. Does it really matter how the panel is grounded as long as it is, whether by plug or pipe?

Is there a way to test to see if the panel is properly grounded (or should I open another post)?


Thanks for your continued help MrRonFL!

If you are concerned with having a good earth ground, you can simply ground the panel to the nearest good earth ground using the grounding terminal or lug.

I would be more inclined to install a surge supressor in the telco lines, and possibly on the power input terminals; something like this one. (http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-950.htm)

MrRonFL, there are instructions on the first few pages with grounding the panel which I'll do and probably try the plain non-grounded transformer for X10.

I currently have digital cable/phone coming in and outputting to my analog telco lines. Would having the incoming digital have helped with the grounding issues, already? Is there a way I can check, possibly giving them a call?

I never thought that the telco lines would be more to worry about then the regular electrical lines. But I imagine it may be overlooked by most people, so possibly that is why the possibility is definitely there. So much to learn, this is great.

Thanks for the info.

If you mean that you are using a VOIP system instead of regular Telco, or DSL, it is inherently isolated because it has to pass through the adaptor. There are other issues regarding VOIP and alarms, though.

But, yes, I have seen as many lightning damages from the strike coming in from the telephone lines, as through the AC. When a major transient hits the incoming AC power, it usually takes out the plug-in transformer before it can damage the system itself.

It's working now because of the transformer as you'd imagine. Now the only issue is some of the outlets are on the wrong "side" of you breaker panel. You mentioned looking into a phase coupler possibly.

What are the risks involved with using one? Would you recommend a passive or amplified phase coupler for this type of application and which kind is best for a small house? Also can I get one that just plugs in, w/o a bunch of extra wiring (esp. in the breaker box)? The only plug-in I find is one for your dryer (http://www.smarthome.com/images/4816dgm_big.jpg) (plugs into a 220-volt dryer outlet). Are they any good?

Thanks

I'm not familiar with that particular model, but dryer and range outlets are about the only part of your electrical system where both phases are present outside the breaker panel. All it really does is put a capacitor across the phases to allow the signal to pass into the other half of the house electrical.

Check with the home automation forum someone there has likely bought one of these devices.

Thanks for your help MrRonFL.