Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - Skil Circular saw just ain't cutting it!

I've got a Skil 7 1/4" model 5400 Circular Saw and I'm having a heck of a time getting it to cut through 2 x 4's and 3/4" plywood. I'm tearing down an old playhouse and the saw struggles to get through each piece and I've got to stop to let the blade cool from time to time. Is this to be expected or should I look for another blade for this thing? :wall:

Get a new blade - preferably carbide tipped. They cost just a little more but will last 40 times longer.

Is the blade in right? Have seen oldtimers do it now and then. Like said get a Good new blade

ED ;)

For demo work such as this, an 18-tooth carbide blade would be ideal in a circular saw. Set the blade depth as shallow as possible to minimize friction on the blade. For the plywood, that would be about 1" exposure to allow for warping in the wood; about 2" for the 2x4's. A shallow blade exposure will also permit more steering in the cut.
I normally would use a reciprocating saw for this work, but a circular saw should do.
Make sure that any extension cord is 12-guage and either 25' or 50'. The blade binding will draw maximum current when it stalls.

Is the blade in right? Have seen oldtimers do it now and then. Like said get a Good new blade

ED ;)

Oh Wow! Really a good point - the blade could be in backwards which would of course not cut well at all. Normally it's obvious, but if the blade is a fine tooth crosscut or finish blade it could easily have been installed incorrectly. Of course, for rough work like this I prefer a coarser blade anyway. :rolleyes:

Wow - thanks for all the great tips - I've only had the saw for a few weeks and the blade was on the saw out of the box - I'll check it out. Also, I may invest in a carbide tipped blade.

The Skil 5400 is a very nice tool. However, it is a 12 amp saw running 4600 rpm. Many of the professional saws will take 15 amps running 5800 rpm.
You probably will not notice much difference in the cutting speed, but a thin-kerf carbide blade is critical: less material removed, stays sharp longer, etc. Adequate blades in the $8-10 range should do the trick.

i also soap the blade to lube if i'm cutting wood that isn't going to be painted or finished

Up here in Northern BC most of the trees are softwood Spruce, Pine, some Poplar, and if your lucky some Birch. Anyway I would guess 80% of the people who mostly use wood stoves for heating would tell you to buy a Husky with at least an 18" bar. Leave the Poulans,etc for the city folk trimming their trees. You get what you pay for.

I screwed up wrong post Duh! I better stick to drywall.

Went out last weekend and bought a carbine blade and boy what a difference it makes! The saw flies through just about anything!

Thanks for the help and tips on my problem!