Walls and Ceilings - Plasterboard mud ?
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BradL
04-04-05, 05:15 PM
G'Day Folks,
I'm afraid I might have been caught by the difference in terminology between the US and Australia again but here goes.......
Can anyone explain to me the difference in the base coat 'filler' and the top coat 'filler' that you use to finish the joints after installing plasterboard ?
For example, if I use CSR basecoat 45, I can apply another coat in about an hour but the Topcoat material requires 24 hours between coats. Is it possible/advisable to use the basecoat product for the recommended 3 coats, or do I have to use the Top Coat material to 'finish' the job ?
I hope this makes sense.....
Regards,
Brad.
I'm afraid I might have been caught by the difference in terminology between the US and Australia again but here goes.......
Can anyone explain to me the difference in the base coat 'filler' and the top coat 'filler' that you use to finish the joints after installing plasterboard ?
For example, if I use CSR basecoat 45, I can apply another coat in about an hour but the Topcoat material requires 24 hours between coats. Is it possible/advisable to use the basecoat product for the recommended 3 coats, or do I have to use the Top Coat material to 'finish' the job ?
I hope this makes sense.....
Regards,
Brad.
Snoonyb
04-06-05, 02:12 AM
When you say "CSR 45", is this a bagged, dry material, mixed with water to a consistency for application?
Can you provide a mfg. link of the products you are using?
Can you provide a mfg. link of the products you are using?
BradL
04-06-05, 02:17 AM
http://www.gyprock.com.au/common/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=Gyprock&category%5Fname=Compounds
This should take you to the various compounds available over here in Oz.
I've used the Base Coat 45, which is as you describe - dry powder mixed with water. The 'Top Coat' recommended by my local hardware guy is premixed.
Best Regards,
Brad.
This should take you to the various compounds available over here in Oz.
I've used the Base Coat 45, which is as you describe - dry powder mixed with water. The 'Top Coat' recommended by my local hardware guy is premixed.
Best Regards,
Brad.
Snoonyb
04-06-05, 02:45 AM
Good. That's similar to products used here , offered by USG and Hamilton.
What has been recommended to you is one of several processes and you will here several others here.
This is what works for me;
I use 40min. (easy sand) in a 2 to 1 ratio with 5min. (easy sand) for the first and second coats. Boosting the 40 with the 5 shortens the surface hardening time, allowing for the application of the second coat. When this has dried, (the same temperature as the ajoining surfaces, to the touch), I then apply a thin coat of topping.
I mix in a drywall pan with a 6" knife.
Because the dry mix is easy sand and a soften surface, I use the topping as a hard surface.
Pull the edges tight with you knife, it will eliminate most of the sanding.
I sand very little, and with with a hand sanding sponge.
What has been recommended to you is one of several processes and you will here several others here.
This is what works for me;
I use 40min. (easy sand) in a 2 to 1 ratio with 5min. (easy sand) for the first and second coats. Boosting the 40 with the 5 shortens the surface hardening time, allowing for the application of the second coat. When this has dried, (the same temperature as the ajoining surfaces, to the touch), I then apply a thin coat of topping.
I mix in a drywall pan with a 6" knife.
Because the dry mix is easy sand and a soften surface, I use the topping as a hard surface.
Pull the edges tight with you knife, it will eliminate most of the sanding.
I sand very little, and with with a hand sanding sponge.
BradL
04-06-05, 03:53 AM
Thanks for that.
Unfortunately my application leaves a lot to be desired and sanding is an essential part of my renovation work :(
I marvel at the skill that professionals have when applying mud. I just can't get it right no matter how hard I try. Allowing for shrinkage is one of the things I find hard as well. I just can't do it.
Oh well, the good thing is that I don't have to rely on my taping and filling skills to feed the family :)
Regards,
Brad.
Unfortunately my application leaves a lot to be desired and sanding is an essential part of my renovation work :(
I marvel at the skill that professionals have when applying mud. I just can't get it right no matter how hard I try. Allowing for shrinkage is one of the things I find hard as well. I just can't do it.
Oh well, the good thing is that I don't have to rely on my taping and filling skills to feed the family :)
Regards,
Brad.
Snoonyb
04-06-05, 09:46 PM
Shrinkage is usually not a problem with dry mix products, unless you are using to much water.
Hold the tool as flat to the wall as is comfortable when working the mud and pulling the edges tight should reduce your sanding.
Hold the tool as flat to the wall as is comfortable when working the mud and pulling the edges tight should reduce your sanding.