Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Hardwood Installation - Not a Straight Line
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sun1974
03-29-05, 01:35 PM
I am installing Hardwood floor in my dining room, and towards the end of the room ( 3 feet from the wall) , I see that the boards have taken a non-straight line. I might have picked a uneven line to start with, which could've caused this... This is causing lot of adjustments to the boards so that they are properly buckled up between the tounge and groove.
Experts pls help..Do I fill in the gaps with some wood filler ( and stain it ) Or leave them alone to allow the expansion ?
This happens to be in a place where my dining Table would be placed and even from a re-sale point of view ( I would be selling my home in 6-8 months time), shoudl'nt cause a problem.
After going through these message boards, I see that a lot of people talk about wood planks expanding in summer...But, I left about 1/4" along the perimeter of the room to allow that ... Should' nt that be enough ?? Or does the boards expand sideways also ?
TIA, sun1974
Experts pls help..Do I fill in the gaps with some wood filler ( and stain it ) Or leave them alone to allow the expansion ?
This happens to be in a place where my dining Table would be placed and even from a re-sale point of view ( I would be selling my home in 6-8 months time), shoudl'nt cause a problem.
After going through these message boards, I see that a lot of people talk about wood planks expanding in summer...But, I left about 1/4" along the perimeter of the room to allow that ... Should' nt that be enough ?? Or does the boards expand sideways also ?
TIA, sun1974
twelvepole
03-29-05, 09:51 PM
If you installed a 3/4" solid hardwood floor, then a 3/4" expansion gap should have been left along the perimeter of the room for expansion. Wood tends to expand more across boards than length as temperature and humidity levels change. The expansion gap is then hidden by baseboard and shoe mold or quarter round. If you had existing baseboard, then shoe mold or quarter round is used to cover the gap. It is installed to the baseboard, not the flooring.
Expansion and contraction tend not to be major issues if wood was properly acclimated in rooms where installed for several days before installing, if asphalt vapor retarder was installed over the 3/4" subfloor before installation, if there are no jobsite issues like a damp crawl space (should be dry, well-ventilated, & soil covered with plastic vapor retarder) or basement, and if temperature and humidity levels are maintained at occupancy level year round.
For hardwood installation instructions, go to www.nofma.org for the National Oak Flooring Manufacturer's Association's technical manual. Failure to follow proper installation, will void warranties.
Expansion and contraction tend not to be major issues if wood was properly acclimated in rooms where installed for several days before installing, if asphalt vapor retarder was installed over the 3/4" subfloor before installation, if there are no jobsite issues like a damp crawl space (should be dry, well-ventilated, & soil covered with plastic vapor retarder) or basement, and if temperature and humidity levels are maintained at occupancy level year round.
For hardwood installation instructions, go to www.nofma.org for the National Oak Flooring Manufacturer's Association's technical manual. Failure to follow proper installation, will void warranties.