Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Baseboard Question

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Trigger99
03-26-05, 11:38 PM
Help?!?!

Please be patient, I am a new home owner and have been doing quite a few DIY projects. Our next is an adventure in laminate flooring!! I understand the need for an expansion gap, and that leads to my question about the baseboards. Ours is 1/2" thick (standard?). Do I need to tear it all off, then install the laminate, then put new baseboard back up on top of the new floor? Or should I leave it up and place my flooring down leaving a gap in front of the baseboard? I have read at this site where people mention using a "shoe" moulding, or 1/4 round mldg (same thing??) to cover the gap, but I am not sure if they are using the mldg instead of the baseboard, or if they are using it in addition to the baseboad. And if you are supposed to use both, do you paint the shoe or 1/4 round to match the baseboard, or try to find the same color as the "wood" laminate. If it is a matter of personal preference, I would definately accept and respect any opinions or information given! Thank you very much in advance for any advice you can give :)

Drew Steele


I recently saw a post regarding under cutting, maybe renting an undercutting saw from Home Depot and cutting the bottom or the baseboard is an option?


Glenwood
03-27-05, 07:12 AM
Hello,

Baseboards have a ton of different widths, so best is to measure yours.

You have the choice of taking them off and putting them back on after you floor is installed. Upside is you won't have to install in molding to hide expansion gap. Downside, you'll never get it back on as nice it was up the first time and also could damage trim and paint while removing.

You also have a choice of installing what is called 1/4 round or baseshoe. They are basically the same thing, just a different profile. The 1/4 round is exactly like it states, it is 1/4 of a circle. Base shoe has little diffent profile.
They are both cheap to install (about $4 for 8 foot of oak). Upside, is you don't have to mess with taking the trim off. Downside a little bit increased cost and have to install it new (easy to do).

Always match the baseshoe or 1/4 round to the baseboard!!!! They do sell laminate that matches the floor, but it looks TERRIBLE. Plus it is much more expensive to do it that way.

I am not sure if they rent undercut saw or not at Home Depot. You can purchase a hand undercut saw at any flooring store for about $20. IF you can rent it, it would be much easier to use. Just make the first cut and check the height before cuting all the jambs.

Good luck

Carpets Done Wright
03-27-05, 07:45 AM
There is a big difference in ¼ round and shoe molding.

¾" - ¼ round is what you want.

Shoe molding is ¾" tall but only ½" wide, and if your floor shifts, as floaters do sometimes, the ½" shoe molding isn't going to cover it.


your going to need to undercut the door jambs, but undercutting baseboards is a waste of time, if you think you going to slide it under it and get that last row, or board in a row installed.


Glenwood
03-27-05, 10:07 AM
3/4 inch 1/4 round is ok if you like the larger profile of the molding or you are really concerned about expansion on a very large floor. We have never had a problem with 1/2" base shoe on our floors (yes we use 3/4inch on larger floors). I don't care for the massive look of that particular molding, but to each their own.

Carpets Done Wright
03-27-05, 09:05 PM
Shoe molding is for sheet vinyl, or a gluedown engineered. To keep sheet vinyl from curling and gluedown engineereds, don't move much.

I've seen floaters move quite a bit, and not from expansion.

Glenwood
03-28-05, 05:20 AM
Yes, floors move, but I really havn't had many issues with that. Maybe the guy could use a 2X4 for trim. :D

Annette
03-28-05, 10:35 AM
as far as how it looks, i think using quarter round says "remodel".

if you'll carefully take off your baseboards & replace them, your floor will look like it was original to the house. a much better look.

Glenwood
03-28-05, 12:47 PM
Just remember to measure you baseboards and make sure it will cover your expansion gap and have at least 1/4 inch extra for movement.

Trigger99
03-28-05, 11:39 PM
I think I am leaning toward the 2x4 idea!! Kidding of course! Thank you for the tips!