Flooring Tile - which cement board??
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Da_Pearces
03-23-05, 10:33 AM
Not sure where to post this question, so I'll give it a try here.
I purchased permabase cement board and cut a piece out to check it against the thickness of the drywall to match. This stuff is hard to cut! I used a utility knife and snapped it like recommended, but what a mess. I am afraid that every cut might end up being a nightmare, and was wondering if hardibacker or another type might be easier to work with?
Also, I noticed that there is a 1/4" thickness difference where the cement board and the drywall meet This is also about the thickness of the tub lip that will secure the tub to the wall. Was thinking of shimming out the studs with 1/4" strips of wood before secureing the cement board so it will lay evenly with the drywall and be able to go over the lip of the tub for tiling. Would this work? Is there another better way to go about this?
I purchased permabase cement board and cut a piece out to check it against the thickness of the drywall to match. This stuff is hard to cut! I used a utility knife and snapped it like recommended, but what a mess. I am afraid that every cut might end up being a nightmare, and was wondering if hardibacker or another type might be easier to work with?
Also, I noticed that there is a 1/4" thickness difference where the cement board and the drywall meet This is also about the thickness of the tub lip that will secure the tub to the wall. Was thinking of shimming out the studs with 1/4" strips of wood before secureing the cement board so it will lay evenly with the drywall and be able to go over the lip of the tub for tiling. Would this work? Is there another better way to go about this?
Tileguybob
03-23-05, 01:14 PM
I have never used permabase so I cant cooment on it compared to another product. There is a scoring tool sold at the big box stores and some tile retailers that is used to cut Hardi. You have to make several passes to make the score deep enough to snap the board. Other guys have used their circular saw witha wood cutting blade reversed so it grinds instead of cutting. They say it works fine but to do it outdoors because of the amount of dust made.
Shimming out the studs so the cement board laps over the tub lip without bowing out is the recommended way to do it, so you are right on track. Put up a vapor retarder on the studs before hanging the cement board. It could be 15 lb roofing paper or a plastic drop cloth 4 mil in thickness. This will keep any water penetration from soaking the studs, not likely that it would happen but its cheap insurance.
Shimming out the studs so the cement board laps over the tub lip without bowing out is the recommended way to do it, so you are right on track. Put up a vapor retarder on the studs before hanging the cement board. It could be 15 lb roofing paper or a plastic drop cloth 4 mil in thickness. This will keep any water penetration from soaking the studs, not likely that it would happen but its cheap insurance.
Da_Pearces
03-23-05, 01:28 PM
Thanks for the advice. Already got the roofing cloth and I'm ready to go! I got a carbide blade for my jigsaw, as was recommended by someone on johnbridge.com so I'll give that a shot (seemed the cheapest/easiest thing to try first). I already ruined one piece of permabase by snapping off the corner, so I might as well try the blade before I haul all the others back.